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The Hummer one should be the same as Ken's so no need. I will need the other type out there at some point too.

Thanks Swiss, I might depending on whether it is different that what Ken is sending...

Thanks Ken, PM on the way. I have been off grid for a few days...

Just look for golf cart SS solenoids. They go up to 32v or 36V or so, but 24V is fine. They are like $50 each. Golf cart supply places have them.

I have had trucks show up with a gallon of water in the oil pan, no fluid in the tranny, planetaries empty, muddy water used as coolant, driveshafts bent, fuel tanks full of dirt/mud/rocks, frames twisted, oil coolers bypassed, fans disabled, and much more. The grunts and mechs can be really...

I have run 12V winches on 24v for years. I have also run 12V on 12V and 24V on 24V. I have also changed solenoids on both 12V and 24V winches and one thing I have started to see is that many winches now use the same solenoid whether 12v or 24v. In any case I usually upgrade to solid state...

I would guess air brakes and electrical will be your two nemesis's. Neither are really road serviceable items. You might get really lucky but I think I got one of the better units out there and I still needed 40hrs or so in my shop to get everything what I would consider road worthy. I needed...

Just run it at 24V. It will run twice as fast and use 1/2 the amps. Very common for the pro off roaders to do just that.

When everything is working you will hear the solenoid click when you have the master and key on and push in the clutch switch. It is pretty hard to hear if it is noisy so sometimes pushing it with your hand might be better. No click and the starting will not work.

Thanks Fred.

Nope, do you want to pick it up when it is ready or have me ship it. I am in Kamas, UT.

I am putting it on the the thermostat housing area with either a modified housing or an intermediate plate between the thermostat and the crossover. I need the entire assembly to make sure the measurements for the hoses are right.

Rich, Thanks for your comments. I am actually going into the thermostat area. This will not effect warm up time negatively at all. I need a crossover and a rear plate with the sender in it to complete the kits.

I have an adapter that adds an AN fitting inline between the plate and the sender. I will need one as an example to make sure the measurements are correct. The ideal situation would be someone who is out of commission for a few weeks that can send the drivers side plate to me for verification...

Guys, you may have seen the kits I build for the HMMWVs 6.2, 6.5 and 6.5T which reduces the overall system temps and balances the overall block temps. You will have less fan on time and more power as a result. Longetivity will be improved significantly as well. The side benefit of the kit is...

I just hate having to take it apart when a see through would be quick and clean.

I think the stainers have a lot of possible air leaks too. A simple plastic see through filter in its place would solve that too. They are $1 each so just change them when they look dirty. I am planning on a fuel system review this summer when I get done with all the HMMWV projects I am...

They look good Bravojmc!

Has anybody considered a simple 24V bendix pump? I think it is silly we have to do this priming thing all the time. You could just hook it up to a momentary button, push it for 5 secs then start her up?

So what we have here is a block which does a poor job of evenly flowing coolant to the rear cylinders of the block. This is not entirely uncommon in older American V8s but is particularly bad in these engines. The original 6.2s suffered the greatest not because the cooling issue was resolved in...