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Thanks, now you mention it, almost did something very stupid here. Turning it would change the positions and the lever would not fit good anymore or be in the wrong position. Is that the problem? A small magnet might help clean the stuff out also.

I will clean it and try to get things out, then try turning the wheel (without starting the engine, that would be a nice mess). If the wheel turns smoothly or at least acceptable, I will leave it at that and rebuild the stuff. Now it is loose and clean, taking it apart again is not much of a...

Swiss, what kind of grease do you use? Doesn't that give problems with the oil? Do you have the Napa number for those rings? I can try to get something fitting here, but I am not sure if I can trust these "no problem, they will fit and are ok" stories here. Cleaning it up probably means...

I thought that this should do the trick as well. This is actually the first thing that I have really trouble with getting it off. For the rest (touch wood) all nuts and bolts came free relatively easy

Taking apart the control valve assembly Might as well find out how the inside of the control valve assembly looks. Took me 20 minutes to get the pin out on which the actuating lever rotates. Not only stuck, but also quite strong rust edges in the spaces between lever and valve house. Read...

Can I join that club?

Removed Hydraulic Control Valve Assembly I think I found at least where part of the problem is. Had to buy a fitting hex key in the big town. Even with the proper tool it is still an awkward position to loosen the four bolts that hold the control valve assembly onto the control housing...

I know, but in the Czech Republic its a bit difficult to get a US military steering wheel puller. Regardless if I damage the steering wheel, a non-military puller gives also enough power but it still does not come off.

I tried a standard large size 3-leg heavy puller on my steering wheel. Had it soaked before in WD 40 for days, hitting the top of the puller under pressure to make vibrations, hit the steering wheel from below rather hard, chipped parts of the plastic from the steering wheel underside (to the...

My batteries are back up, but it took several days of loading, then a bit of use (the truck started with immediately without any hiccup) and back on the loader. The pulse-tech loader-maintainer is on the Christmas list.

Thanks, will do Don't you every sleep or do you have a new-post alarm hard-wired to your brains? :wink: It must be 7 AM or even earlier in Georgia (just now listen to the same name Ray Charles song).

I am going through some old threads I started and noticed that several of them end hanging in the air without clear end. Not wanting to start threads on the same topics and at least end some hanging threads, I tried to reactivate a thread and mention that in an edit to the original first post...

Did not find a downloadable pdf file yet, but here is a link to the full text TB 746-93-1

67Beast, I was thinking to reopen a thread on my engine about that because of some further inspection I did after cleaning the engine. It looks that the engine might be from 1965 and that might fit with what you say. Below the ID plate from the dash, left, and one of the ID shields on the...

This truck is more a mess than I initially thought. However, as lowest layer each time this very darkish green comes up. As to the numbering, this does not fit anything I saw and read till now. Maybe it has something to do with the truck being stored in a POMCUS depot in Europe that these...

I am reviving this thread. Just checked my brakes, parked 15 months ago with at least enough Dot 5 in the master cylinder reservoir to brake. Now, the entire master cylinder is completely empty! No idea where the stuff went. With several brake problem threads around, I think it’s worth pursuing...

The truck is painted, so now I have to get the decals or stencils. Is there a font family that should-can be used so you can make your own markings? Shipping everything from the USA seems a bit overkill and expensive, we have good printers here but I have to provide the font family.

I just got a link to a military surplus shop in Germany where they sell the old US stuff NOS. Is that stuff mixable with the modern Dot 5 or better stick to modern (maybe different additives or I don't know what)

Don't tell me. I have the bolts securing the hub to the flange free but cannot get a hold on the drum. It looks that is should be able to just move over the hub flange holding the tire nuts as well.

I have to check the front brake cylinders and brake shoes. Is it possible to remove the front brake drum without the hub or do you always take of the entire hub as per TM ..20? Sounds like overkill to me because you start messing with the bearing automatically, which I always try to avoid. I...