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OK, after messing with the steering box on and off, mostly off, for a couple of weeks, let me recount. First, there are differences in the trucks as they were not computer made parts. I got Military Vehicles No. 116, with the steering gear removal article. Close, but no cigar on my truck...

The reinforcement kit is used for both purposes as I understand it.

I recently got a gun ring re-enforcement plate for the M35 off eBay. Now the questions: What size pop rivets are used. Is there a TM on the mounting? How far apart are the rivets spaced?

Down to the last bolt this afternoon. Mosquitoes, again, after a dozen bites, I have had enough until tomorrow. It may be possible to remover the steering gear by taking it apart on the frame after all. More to follow.

I am going to McAlester, OK, next Wednesday, to the Army Ammo Plant to pick up some ammo cans. I have 151 cans approximately the same size as the .50 can. My cost will be around $2 per can. If you want some I will be in Sherman, Texas, on the way back around noon. I am meeting some other...

I have gotten the fuel line off, then the mosquitoes came and I quit, again. Start again on Thursday, I think. We shall see.

It was for the deuce and 800 series 5 ton. I was going to bid higher but David said he did not want it now that the deuce has a gun ring. :cry:

RE: Steering box I have not removed the fuel line. Perhaps that is the secret?

My guess is that it will vary by truck. I kind of think that there were differing clearances created by the simple fact that the engines were not designed for that chassis, some were mounted a little to the left, some a little to the right and some more right down the middle. But it appears...

Everything is in place. I think it is a matter of just moving the box around for clearance at this point. I may take the bolts out of the front motor mounts and hoist the engine a 1/4 of an inch up to see what that does if I get impatient.

There is a real M35 hardtop on eBay now, Steve. It will cost about $175 shipping. The last bid I saw was around $275. It is NOS. Mark is parting out a nice body parts M35 at RAPCO, you might give him a call for body parts.

OK, I am down to the last bolt on the box. I have been liberally treating my hands with peroxide where the flesh used to be. The temps have been hot and, of all things, the mosquitoes have been slowing my progress. I kept re-reading MV #116, looking on this board and thinking that it is...

I thought about the Overson and Selectro at some length. So, I think, just for fun, I will see what John Tennis comes up with. I have been very satisfied with his filter adapters and I kind of think the lock out hubs from him will be worth waiting for. So, come on John, get the stuff ready to...

Check with John Colver in Waxahachie. He has some extra.

Here it is. Just take a hand grinder and increase the size of the jaw opening to fit.

Fortunately, my puller threads are intact. But anti-seize is a good idea for those attempting this.

They are all over Canada. Used until the 1980's. Look about and you will find.

This will make a nice parts truck. You need another to build and strip this for parts. Most of the parts you need are not present, and many that you will need are. Good luck.

First time for me. (Sounds like something off Craigslist, sort of.) But, I do not have any idea how much torque was on the puller but it was a bunch. I really think the PB Blaster works as the threads were damp when the arm came off. I figured this experience was enough to justify posting...

OK! Got it off! I went to O'Reilly Auto Parts, again, and purchased their Pitman Arm Puller. Nice, heavy and does not fit. I took a hand grinder and abrasive to it to widen the gap just about 1/8 if an inch. Perfect fit. Much beefier unit than the five ton two clamp I first attempted to...