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My Dual Tank system uses a 2 position switch to control the left and right fuel tank pumps. (Really a single pole switch energizing a relay that powers the left tank defaulting to the right tank when not energized). Flow is controlled by a doubled 3 port valve (from an 809 series 5 ton tractor)...
Ahab, pretty much the idea. For every 33 feet, the pressure doubles. At sea level the absolute pressure is 1 atmosphere, that's the weight of all the air to space at that point (aka 14.69 pounds of air per square inch). At 33 feet it's 2 atmpospheres or 30 psi.
Note here...
I'm thinking about the issue of drawing fuel from the non-selected tank. I guess if you were to suffer an in tank failure (fuse blows) you could pull fuel from both tanks and possibly over fill the one tank. Just thinking through failure modes here.
Does your flow work like this?
HP (~100 PSI) Air -> LP regulator -> 3 Way solenoid Valve -> Gauge/diffs/gearboxes
What happens when you suffer an electrical failure while running through the water?
Seems like a manual control 3 way valve would make things a touch simpler ? Would an Air...
Rusty, could you give a rundown of the parts and typical cost for them if possible?
The Gauge, Regulator and solenoid are key.
I've been contemplating this myself. I'm about to install a remote BFS reservoir and have the parts on order. A fording pressurization system is the next tweak to do...
Hey guys, I'm helping a local PD out with their MRAP. Some dufuses tried to jump it off and now it's presenting a problem. The basic problem is this: While running (parked or driving) the dash indicator lights/gauges will power off as if a breaker was failing and then will reset.
The vehicle...
Water on 12 volt items won't likely cause a short unless there is other material there that's likely to be a conductor. Think of the batteries and the wires that are running to them. They're out in the weather. You DO have to worry about corrosion on the copper and other metal bits inside...
Yeah, this is a very specific thing to the M939s.
Is it because the reverse is already a very low range that low reverse makes for far more torque than should be used? Seems like a major failure of design and engineering.
Thread time.
Hey Ron, does this resemble what you described? Earlier war of course but same idea no?
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/89/M_26,_Pacific_Dragon_Wagon_pic1.JPG
You need a longer steel nut. They're out there. I got a replacement line from the master cylinder to the air-pak for my rebuild a month back and found the right nut length.
Mudding is how you break things. Badly. In places you don't want to break them and which make your recovery harder.
On the other hand viewing the truck as able to get through problems without having to go FIND them is the best way to look at them.