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What ya did there by not having that insulated spacer was convert the isolated ground alternator into a non-isolated ground alternator. As soon as you hook that up you short out one of the batteries... :burn: Fix this before you even think about starting to replace fusible links. You may have...

Read through this thread... Goodies are at the end. In summary, the two bolt holes will line up with the top two antenna bracket holes - they use the same two bolts. :beer:

Figured I'd plug this thread again...

Indeed, got a text last night: Urp definition. Now everyone at home is sick except me - thinking of getting a hotel, or sleeping in the truck... Truck is running really solid since the hard line was replaced, nice not having a pool of tranny fluid under the truck in the morning.

If you like driving on the freeways the M1009/Blazer is the way to go - 3.08:1 gearing makes going over 55MPH less damaging to the engine [thumbzup]

You may already know this but, for others note the Glow Plug card and alternator Voltage Regulators are not EMP hardened.

Also bit the bullet and forked over the cash ($$:shock:$$) for the whole truck's weather seals - sans the forward door glass seals, out of my budget for now. Another $60 for those

Fluids changed, transmission cooler line replaced (leak stopped). Shifts better too now. [thumbzup] Only other leak I have to deal with is the fuel lift pump. I'll be doing this over Christmas break (parts in-hand). I'll also do a bit more documentation on the headlight harness construction...

There's a wide variety of uses: historic preservation, cool factor, utility (work/play). I drive my M1009 daily as a commuter because it gets about the same milage as my former Toyota pickup, and has less to go wrong - it was cheaper to buy a running CUCV than to fix the Toyota, that's what did...

Welcome from Northern California [thumbzup] Couple of things to check first. It's been cold even in Huntington Beach - this morning was down in the lower 40's F. These engines need a minimum of 200RPM to combust the fuel, starter speed comes from voltage, and it needs to sustain the force...

Welcome from California :beer:

That's a fine looking truck :beer:

Remember that I'm sizing wire to good Electrical Engineering practice, GM sized theirs to "good enough to last the warranty period, and be cheap enough to get the contract" :beer:

Telnet is a text (plain-text, insecure) command prompt essentially on a computer. Some moron Admins and noobs will leave that port open so they can remote control their systems from somewhere else - it can have an OS login and password, but because it's unencrypted anyone can read the packet...

Welcome from California :beer:

My interface is not as sexy (text report) - theirs makes me want to add a "peww peww" kid's laser gun sound to the site... [thumbzup]

Looking into the last of the current glow plug system state, I found that I have a thermal switch where there should be a thermal sensor for the GP controller. The civilian controllers used a glow plug inhibit (On/Off - and seems to be the bane of that system), while the CUCV controller has a...

Sounds like you have a pretty good recipe here. Just for giggles, I'd use 4-Gauge for each of the banks, and then the fusible links for the plugs. The two gauge power feed has 66,369circular mils of copper - going to 8Gauge (16,509circular mils) is about 1/4" the amount of copper in the...

Site was a bit slow, sorry for the late reply... I would say most assuredly, YES. Comments in-line in Yellow: There are many threads on the correct part number relay to use for the GP relay underhood (GPR109 or ST85 rings a bell) - as you can see 100Amps may be fine, but I really prefer a...

40Amps is way too low for the glow plugs. Each plug will draw between 10-20 amps depending on the plug model (80-160Amps total). Yes, I will always advocate for putting the glow system back to stock - you can do the resistor bypass, but the rest of the glow system should be up to snuff IMHO...