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Sounds like a dirty contact somewhere with the starting issue, or sticky relay. The double float switch may be bad or out of place, causing the false low fuel shut down if you indeed have 1/4 tank.

Great work & thanks for documenting. Hope you got a bunch of new hardware! I throw away all removed stuff as it's not worth the hassle. That is just me!

Wow, if the top broke off trying to take it apart, I'd guess it got some moisture in it & it rusted. Glad the videos were helpful!

Sounds like it may be a worn out or stuck injector then. They can be opened up fairly easy & cleaned. Maybe some old gunk is stuck in there making it hold open & then the vapors are blowing out into the exhaust?

I still think the fact that it won't open the contactor is an issue, but, I do think mine was doomed from the beginning as the issue was already there to begin with & I really drove it home. Just didn't know better seeing how the two legs were not perfectly balanced. I wouldn't push it hard like...

I think it was your post that I linked too. Thank you!

Was asking because if it was installed wrong, you will have injection issues. But, it will generally not stop when commanded either if this is the case but it still could shut down. There is an inspection window to see if it is in the "fork" as it should be. In these videos, I talk about that...

Okay, the reason I asked was I have seen two times where if it is one leg, the wire broke inside the crimped connector insulation cover behind the output lugs. It is basically arcing in there & causing reduced VAC output. You won't ever notice it until it lights on fire or you remove the output...

I like to read success stories.

If the switch is indeed dead, you can run without it and get some sort of switch of your own likeing to wire into the proper circuit set & install it in it's place. On top of it running dry being bad for the engine, the main reason why this switch was there was to avoid surging & sputtering with...

Is the 24V on all legs or one?

Does the injection pump look like it was ever messed with, removed, or adjusted in anyway?

Great work. I had wire harnesses posted for sale FOREVER and they didn't move, so I scrapped them to just browse & see this thread. Had someone local need it two weeks after as well. Looks like I will not being doing that again. My next part out, the harnesses will be saved. Though, at the...

Enjoy everyone. Looks like it will be t-shirt & shorts here in south Texas. :p

I was watching on the phone, so it just looked bad. Without seeing it in person, who knows. If it can take a full load, it is what it is in the end!

I have everything to properly seal the fuel bowl in a kit. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep-802a-803a-upgrades.214595/#post-2511773

Just wanted to come here & share something I found on another post... the MEP 1050 has the same generator head as the MEP 1040. At times, I can get those for a good deal. So, I may be able to get one for just the head to make this MEP 1040 work. Thread below...

None are needed with the OEM line as it is return line, not feed line. It will "bond" after a heat cycle or two & seal up. For piece of mind, a zip tie will do but again, not needed. It's why they're hard to pull off after they have been on. If you are using something else, get something that is...

Pull, yank, cut. Doesn't matter. They're designed to bond after some head cycles to seal well. It's why those plastic tees are a throw away item in my opinion.

Even if that gets wasted, it's better than a full tank (or more if AUX is being used) being wasted when the existing one leaks the first time you run it overnight & it decides to spew. Then you are out the fuel & power. Changing them out is not fun no matter the route you go, but making sure it...