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No different than driving a truck every once in awhile and no different than it would see in service.

I have a few spare engines on stands with radiators. I just run them a few times a year. Makes me happy to hear them run and the process keeps everything lubricated. I drain out the coolant; not sure if that is best or if I should keep coolant in them?

The minimum clamp load for the head gasket should be 4x the peak cylinder pressure. The greater the peak cylinder pressure, the greater the clamp load needs. It would be interesting to do the math to determine the existing clamp load of the stock studs based on the torque applied to the nuts...

Rusty, I reread some of your previous posts and you did claim that the multi does NOT have full flow oil filtration. I am not going to have any way to PROVE that the multi has full flow oil filtration. Honestly, I am at a bit of a loss how to otherwise validate what should be readily obvious...

You wrote: "Jason, it is evident you are not familiar with older engine design." I have owned about a half dozen 270 & 302 gmcs and am well familiar with the block and oil galley modifications necessary to convert them to full flow oil filtration. I have converted two Reo OA331 from bypass...

Sorry, what I posted was for the transfer case of the sprag M35.

I had one in my deuce for awhile. You can install it without dropping out the whole transfer case. Just pull off the front drive cover. I had to make a puller to remove the gear but otherwise it was an easy process.

To put some numbers behind this: The spin on filter, Wix 51458 has a maximum flow rating of 11-13 GPM. There are two parallel filters on the multifuel so the filter flow capability is doubled to 22-26 GPM. Multifuel engines (ignoring the LDS-2 which is rare) have an oil pump capacity of 20...

Why do you think that there is any reason to do this? Bjorn did a test a number of years ago and the pressure drop across the filters was way below 15 psi (ie. all oil was being filtered). The filters are correctly sized for this engine.

The piston nozzle regulator regulator opens at a main oil galley pressure above 15 psi providing oil to the squirters. This is so you you don't have an unnecessary "leak" at idle and have plenty of oil for the bearings at idle. Take a closer look at the diagram at which way the valve is...

In my truck, that middle part rode against the seal and there was clear evidence of wear against the brass thermostat.

The 40 psi relief valve (40 psi based on TM9-2815-204-35) means that there is an oil leak that opens at a galley pressure above 40 psi. You would need to have 60 to 80 psi pressure drop across the filters/ cooler to get 100 to 120 psi at the pump. The filter/ cooler have differential relief...

I think that it was 157. That "7" seems to suggest something is at an upper limit (stud or deck).

Check the TM but I don't believe that any one regulator is for the turbo only. I think that one on the side is for the piston squirters and one is for main oil galley.

You won't increase your idle pressure by adjusting the regulator.

Well, none of this is especially encouraging. I have two White multifuels built in the early 80s.

On the advice from deuceman51, backed out the droop screw about 1.5 turns. Started up this morning at about 2°F. The flame heater did work but it seems like it works best if you modulate it a little bit off/ on while cranking instead of holding it on.

It would seem that they do exist: http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=oliver&th=174105

TM9-2815-204-35 probably has the best oiling diagrams for the multi (Figure 18 on page 9 and Figure 19 on page 11). There is no check valve for the oil filters shown on either figure and no mention in the text. Where would it be located? The valves on the side of the block are for the...

I have read about quite a few broken rods; can't remember many broken cranks?