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I would be surprised if it only shifts into 2nd and there are no codes, other than the continuous code 12, did you disconnect the batteries before retrieving the codes?
Thanks, I was thinking of another MB diesel that would bolt up to the bell housing, seems doubtful I would find a Cummins/MB adapter and there is no choice but to use the original bell housing. (or in my case a copy of the Unimog 411 bell housing that had the OM636 4 cylinder diesel engine)
Now...
Wires #75 are for the brake lights, they have nothing to do with the brake warning lamp
Unplug the wire from the brake equalizer and see if the light goes out.
The brake warning light is only connected to the parking brake switch and the brake equalizer.
The equalizer is the aluminum block next...
If you stop and pee in Papalote they will arrest you, there are no businesses :ROFLMAO:
In fact in Bee County if you are walking down or stopped on the highway the cops will check you out, not allot going on around here....
I have a 404 that I re-powered in the early 90s with an OM617 5 cylinder turbo diesel.
That engine needs work so I am wondering if there are any other viable options now?
This will also let you see if any IP lines are not getting any fuel, you will not be able to tell if there is enough pressure to fire the injector but you should see similar results as far as how much fuel comes of of each line.
If it has always had the "mis" you might want to make sure all the...
What did the fuel filter look like? if it was dirty or filled with gunk then the input screen may be clogged, you should see some flow from the return even if the governor is stuck in the stop position.
You may also try feeding the IP with a mixture of diesel and MM oil.
The IP is a "distributor" type of pump, while possible it is not very likely it would be able to "fire" some cylinders and not all of them.
Break each line loose and see if you can figure out which ones are not firing, this would be indicated by a lack of RPM drop when the line is "busted loose"
You really do not need to tag the wires, they all have ID tags and there is no guarantee they were connected correctly to begin with, that is what schematics are for.
I have had that happen several times, I find it easier to just drill out the head and when the trans/engine cooler is off there is plenty of threads left, add some heat and they come right out.
Start by counting the big wires going to the buss bar, you should have one to the starter, one to the alt, one to the slave connector and if you have the AUX. power connector behind the pass seat one to there.