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Or a Contact Maintenance Truck.

With two people, remove the trans through the floor boards Remove the bottom clutch cover. The rest will be self explanatory. The TM 1840 is downloadable here. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?83365-TM-s-for-the-M37

Parking lights are on the switch. Left lever all the way down and top lever all the way right. Look at M38 wiring diagrams. Marker lights tie to the tail running light feed.

I hope you appreciate me putting on shorts and a T-shirt to go out in the frigid 68° night to check. Lol. 64 is near nominal from side to side on the stakes. M37 bows look like this. (I know the straps are wrong)

The easiest way to do what you want is to put the body on a modern chassis. It will still be a big expensive project with a lot of fabrication. But will eliminate a bunch of engineering and fabrication.

The number on the block will tell you what the engine is and what it came from. The correct engine for your truck would be a T-245. And the one in the truck has the telltale signs. The Spitfire head is good trading stock as it is a higher compression head and the cars guys want them.

I found mine rather inexpensively on fleabay. There are several Veem and Cannon crimpers that do the same job but at a much higher cost.

Actually, there wasn't an aluminum shortage. The scrap drives were so successful we had stockpiles of the stuff. Now, getting it out of government horde and back into production is another matter entirely.

According to the NSN, it is aluminized steel. http://www.nsn-now.com/Indexing/ViewDetail.aspx?QString=2990007373681

What does it state in the parts listing? I'd look, but have a lap full of sleeping critters right now.

The front fender is a large rubber part and John and Jens both sell it. There is a generic welt shown in one of my manuals for the rear but the part doesn't cross to my parts manual.

I just bought a fairly rare Navy Jeep January this year. Paid $3,000 and drove it until a month ago when I started The restoration. The thing is a little rocket compared to any other military Jeep. (It's geared higher and weighs 900lbs less than an M38.) Best thing is, when it is done, it will...

Maine is done. He retired and sold to the other guy.

I have bought several from Vintage. When it was the original owner, he did a bit of customization for me specific purposes. The new owner did some customizing for me too. ( Mix of Packard and Douglass connectors for new and old accessories. Additional wiring for some added pumps and compressor...

Have you tried AuVeCo and LMC Truck?

Rapco is good if your vehicle lives inside. It will fade and chalk in short order on a vehicle left outside. BTW, that Eco Sure in the pic above is what Lighthouse sells. Good stuff.

Lighthouse for the Blind in St Louis sells a very high quality aerosol paint in our color. I buy a case at a time when I run low.

https://www.perfectfit.com/15334/Common-Sense-Fasteners.html https://www.outdoorfabriccentral.com/common-sense.html

A lot of work to make the dash center look like CJ3. A1 dash would be removable panel and CJ5 would have large speedo/cluster.

I run Rotella because I have it and use it in everything but my Alfa Multi-air. I run GL1 in the trans and axles and Lucas 50wt synthetic in the transfer case. When the new engine and trans are installed later this year I will put the Lucas in the new trans, also. GL1 is easily obtained from...