Search results

Further thoughts, sorry I cannot relate the multifuel engine models but we have noted some blocks do not have a coolant passage at the rear of the block and others do. When running engines in containers, using a temp checking gun as it warmed up around the heads and block we noted differences...

Highly recommend pulling out the piston and checking it and the rings. Some of the metal that melted might have blown down around and behind the top compression ring which could cause it to not seal properly. I agree that it is best to put in another piston and rings so you are not always...

Trace the wires out of the headlights to the ground bolt, probably nearby on the front bulkhead the lights mount to. I have even run a new ground wire from that ground to the frame and motor to assure all is grounded securely. That is what I did on an M37 with the same problem and it fixed it.

I believe all springs will weaken under static load over a long period of time. We call it "taking a set". Many is the time that we would pull an engine out of storage and find that the valves with their springs held down by the cam were weaker than the ones that were closed. Replacement is a...

For all of our gas motors in older trucks and tractors that sit for a while between runs and in lawnmowers and chain saws we use Country Mark 91 octane alcohol-free gasoline. It is available in one pump at their stations here. We detest the alcohol fuel because it creates evidently an acid that...

Have you checked the fuel supply to the IP? Changed out fuel filters? Checked fuel flow from tank pump at fuel filters and beyond to be sure supply is good?

Not familiar with these in particular, but to the basics, is the supply line from the tank to the electric pump working as it should? Take the outflow line off the electric pump and run it to see if you have good fuel flow. If there is a rubber line connecting any of the fuel line from the...

My M543 wrecker goes into low easily but high hard unless I pull the lever up with authority. I keep promising myself that when I have time I will check the linkage adjustment/lubrication. I think that is the problem. I do not have that situation with the dump. About the collecting more...

Great idea! Might save a life, but at least prevent property damage and frustration.

Eafarms, welcome! I also am a smaller farmer that finds usefulness with a multifuel dump like yours. We haul stone from a pit 12 miles from here with no problem. We have an 18 ton Ferree tandem axle trailer we pull behind it. We had a scrap medium size combine on the trailer and other scrap...

It can help to have the motor warm to hot when you try to remove a filter. How about a strap filter removal tool, strap on a square tube goes around filter, put a 1/2" ratchet in the end of the tube to turn filter. Gets into tight places better than a lever tool. They are available at auto parts...

It's nothing but fat water! I would rather be looking back on winter than forward to it as we are now. Have fun but be safe in it!

Nothing about delivery date on the dash plates? Some of ours have it.

Agree that the ammeter in the dash is a weak design. The connections depend on plastic mount ot keep them tight. The plastic will melt at the gauge terminals, causing a bad connection which then builds more heat causing more problem and possibly a fire. Pull the dash and check the amp gauge...

Wheel balance and/or worn steering linkage joints could be the culprit. Either put balancing fluid in the tires or have them balanced with weights. Turn the wheel from right to left a bit while a helper watches joints for looseness.

I use a Mico lock in the brake line to the rear wheels on my Dodge Monaco street/drag car. Set it to prevent pressure to the rear brakes for burn-out tire heating, then release it for normal operation. Saves the rear brakes!

For one thing, on the bottom front of the transmission there is a large cover held on by many bolts. Under the transmission case are plugs labeled "water" and "oil". This bottom compartment is the oil cooler/heater for the transmission. Drain the coolant by removing the "water " plug then remove...

We changed a bad injector in a friend's truck; it stopped his oil level rise problem. It was squirting, not spraying, doing it at a pressure too low when tested on the injector tester.

Just a guess of something else to check; are the drive shaft slip joint splines free and well lubricated?

My first thing to do would be to buy a mechanical gauge and install it to see if it agrees with the in-dash gauge. Usually problems like this are with the gauge, wiring (especially grounds), or sender, but to be sure it needs checked out. The mechanical gauge is the best way to do it. If the...