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Not hard at all if you understand what you're doing, and the consequences involved.

Welcome Bulldogg! Try to use a little punctuation in your threads, it makes them a lot easier to read.

If you're around the Denver Colorado area around April 4th, you're more than welcome to attend a Club meeting of the Military Vehicle Collectors of Colorado. We have hosted some of your Aussie Brothers a time or two at our meetings. Our Club Treasurer just purchased a 936A2 Wrecker, you may be...

I just purchased and replaced my heater hoses last week, I bought 5/8" (.625).

Sure would be a bummer to second guess that data plate, load them up, only to find out you're over.

Excellent idea...proactive instead of reactive.

But the Aubers have wires! Just razzin' you, enjoy your setup and post some pixs when you're done.

Great job and your first vehicle electrical project as well! The only thing that came to mind was the 50 Amp overkill, you most likely could have gotten away with 20 or 30 Amp supply current. But it's best to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it.

Not all require power either. I purchased and installed a Hewitt EGT and Boost gauge. The only thing that required power was the 24 VDC Red LED's I had installed at the factory. Mine uses a thermocouple like Dogheads instrument.

Well that will certainly turn some heads.

I was concerned about the word "grinding".

No, not normal.

I can appreciate your engineering and thought process with trying to avoid the wet stacking issue, however I am in agreement with Ty and Tom. I have an 003A just for emergency back-up, and start it up maybe three times a year. I put the house and shop loads on it (about 85%), and run it for 45...

I did successfully rebuild my valve/switch a few years back. The O-rings were wore out, I replaced them, and reassembled. It's worked fine since. Are you sure the valve body isn't cracked?

Just be careful of how much load you put on that circuit. I wouldn't exceed whatever the normal load of truck and trailer B/O lights would be.

That'll work.

I would imagine that is probably a (-) or Negative ground wire.

You may or may not be required to have a transfer switch, as codes are different all over the country. However I would strongly suggest at a minimum, to install a breaker interlock as suggested by Ike in post #12.

It might not be legal to do for a trailer placed upon the highway. I would not think enough light would pass through those tiny red black out lenes to be seen by the driver behind you. Just my 2 cents.

I don't doubt him either, I just wanted to know what your results were.