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I have used baking soda in the form of a paste to remove rust stains on vinyl covers with sucess. Let us know how the CLR works if you go that route.

The way I have added extra 24 VDC circuits is to install a circuit breaker downstream from the existing one on the firewall. I added one for my backup lights and one for my yellow beacons. Being that you want to install something electronic, I would fuse it down to what ever the manufacturer...

True....Mike (GamaGoat1) is kind of tall. All kidding aside, I am proud to call him my Friend.

We had a pretty good ice storm come in last night, the lights would dim and come back to full brightness every few minutes. I did say to myself "go ahead and drop out, I got this covered". Then I came to my senses thinking about how cold it would be to go outside and fire up the 003A.

I have to run my Deuce hard to get it to 180*.

Moisture content is the troublemaker. I've had 18"-20" on my cargo cover but it had very little moisture content and the wind blew most of it off the next day.

You can't rush perfection, Gimp bought that about 2 tears ago.

I'm no 1008 electrical pro, but here goes. Where are you picking up your negative for Battery/Alternator #2? I believe Battery/Alternator #2 are isolated from the common frame ground. Your Negative for that gauge should go to Battery #2 and not the frame. Have you tested that particular gauge on...

Nice idea! The only thing better, is I have all the parts on the shelf to make up my own.

Congrats on your gauge purchase, I have been very happy with my Hewitt products. I didn't want to cut a buch of holes in the dash, so this is what I did...just a suggestion. I cut some 2" aluminum angle, and mounted that to a gauge panel I purchased from Jeg's or Summit. The only hole I drilled...

1st...EDP is correct 2nd...My Deuces have the same holes, probably for another accessory or variant. 3rd...EDP is correct, convoy light post.

Looks as though you have the to do list covered, especially the ammeter bypass, and cleaning firewall electrical connections, both are truly "must dos".

Now that is one sweet ride!

No problem.

The stock heaters are OK when they are installed correctly, some were/are not. They are 30 KBTU. They get hot coolant from the engine, pass it through a heater core, a DC fan blows it into the cab. The heat source is coolant, the fan is electric.

I believe the Military water heated units produce about 30 KBTU, and that barely gets the job done some days. They are available and spendy, civilian units are not quite as spendy. I agree with the others, look into something else and stay clear of electric units.

$$$ OUCH! My choice has been the 24 Volt BatteryMINDer. No pulling out the batteries, no jumpers, etc. Comes with a pre-wired setup to leave connected to the batteries, just connect the charger and plug it in. The charger charges, de-sulfates, and maintains your AGM, GEL, and Flooded...

Not really a dead end. Advice: Contact insurers in Virginia and get the true story, here you'll just get threads with everyone telling you what they have. Insurance carriers are regulated by the individual states, therefore you'd be wasting your time reading a bunch of threads about what...

:popcorn:

I'm sure the OP would be OK with fixing the tranny, provided it would give him some reliability. He had just got the brakes fixed when the tranny decided to go south on him. The OP can get a screamin' deal on a brand new 3053, and just needs to find the other parts. I know for a fact at this...