Search results

I've done 4 by myself now:grin: Not super easy though, it slips back off a lot. I found using an electric drill to put the bolts back in makes it a lot easier.

I had to do both sides twice. It's really difficult to get the seal retainers out with a slide hammer. It's easier to get them out if you take both sides off and just knock it out with a pipe from the other side. Other than that it's not too difficult. That writeup mikey linked is the guide I used.

I got two from NAPA online.

I've seen a lot of the thrown rod ones which is why I don't like the red line and NEVER over-rev them, well, except that one time by mistake:x. I just want a FEW more MPH :smile: For freeway driving the A2 I can do about 55 at 2200 RPM which is comfortable.

I can only get my M109A3 to 50 at 2500 RPM so would this be good to try? I want to get it a little faster for freeway driving. I figured I was going too slow when big rigs were passing me:grin: My M35A2 has no problems getting to 60 or even a little faster down hill.

The one near me says no pickups but it's always closed anyways so I don't have to worry.

Did you get yours registered as an RV? I have mine on a temporary as an RV but I have to go do a vin verification and they'll check the RV stuff. So far I have a bed, a bunch of kitchen cabinets and I'll put in a fridge before I go down there. It should be enough I guess, they're very vague on...

The one on my M35A2 has the same problem as yours but I've never gotten around to fixing it. I did pound on top of the sending unit and the gauge pegs to just under full now:roll: The one on my M109A3 is pretty accurate. It stopped picking up fuel right when the gauge was on E. :grin:

And LOTS of it.

My first EUC for my M35A2 took 2 months before I contacted them and finally got it cleared. My second for my M109A3 took 12 days. Get prepared immediately but prepare for a long wait. I had to scramble to get trucking figured out on the second one because I never expected it to clear so fast.

Both of mine got it pretty bad when I first got them. They obviously weren't run for a long time and I didn't have them registered yet so I did a lot of low speed driving and idling around my ranch. The M35A2 got it the worst, oil was running down the stack and all over the fender. The M109A3...

Both mine will leak down half their air pressure in a few hours(never let them sit longer before draining the tanks). They hold air while driving so I don't worry about it much. I know where a couple leaks are but I'm doing the more important fixes first.

I've fit M1 Garand, AR carbine, AK, some .22s and K98 in it. The MG42 is too big:cry:

Both of mine are hard to get into second sometimes. I start in second low range but always first gear first in high range. I've noticed that they won't go from second to first, it will grind, I have to stop before I can get them in first again. They just need a little patience when shifting:driver:

That plug is inserted when fording to keep water out of the bell housing. It's either mounted next to the hole in it's own slot on some trucks or in the glove box door when it's not in use.

My buddy's deuce did that. He just popped it back on and continues to drive it. He doesn't take the best care of his truck though.

The boots are fine, it's just the left inner axle seal that's leaking again. It shouldn't be as hard this time since I don't have to take the knuckles apart. I replaced it last December and it started leaking when I was offroading and went into a hole pretty hard. My friend made it through in...

I used this guide to do mine. Now it's leaking on the left side and I gotta do it again:roll:

I flushed my cooling system and replaced all the hoses, belts and the cracked oil cooler cover. I also converted the primary fuel filter to spin on. No leaks :jumpin:

I got a replacement from here M35 2.5 Ton Military truck alternator upgrade kit from Wolverine Technologies LLC