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You will want to use needle nose to remove those little compression fittings where the rotten line mounts onto the metering pump barb... they may or may not be reuseable. If they aren't, you can source new or carefully use hose clamps.

You want to cut the caps, with the Xs on them. Use a pair of plier sand squeeze the ridge sides together, which will bulge the other sides. Take a dremel and zip these caps off. Do not cut into the barb inside the hose, or into the primary brass tube that the barbs are mounted... or you will be...

Just use hose clamps on both ends of the new fuel lines, quick and easy. Remove the rotten hose off the hard fuel line barb and the metering pump barb, and replace with line of your choice. I use gates safety stripe. The numbers and diameters are in one of these threads for certain.

The well will leak... Just a matter of time. Could be next month, could be six years from now, but it will.

It doesn't by that part number, but the seller is bundling them together... which is nice. Since you are already there, no sense in not refreshing all the gaskets/seals related to the pump.

https://dpequip.net/shop/military-vehicle-parts/751-40211-lister-petter-lpw-water-pump-gasket/ https://dpequip.net/shop/generator-parts/5330-01-358-5435-lister-petter-751-40450-lpw-water-pump-housing-to-cylinder-head-gasket-onan-186-6182/

When you say the 'backing plate', I assume you mean call out #13? As you can see there is a plate to manifold gasket. If it were me, I would replace the water pump gasket, the gasket for the plate to manifold, and both O rings on the sleeve into the block.

I see small zip ties on the inner grating.

https://www.govplanet.com/jsp/s/item/12172524?src=insideemail-GovPlanet-080924&utm_source=pet&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=GP+-+Saved+Search_1723262700433 I don't care about the equipment, but I would love to find the -24P on this unit, to find out the part number of this right angle adapter -...

Don't forget the crank pulley is a LH thread!

Even if you get the cover off, its going to be easier to see what you are working on from straight on... not around a corner and from the side.

Or wedge the flywheel through the exterior metal lattice thats visible in that photo above, at multiple locations. But if you are not rotating the crank (which with the drive pulley and belt off, little chance of that) and only pulling the cover to articulate the FSS armature, the timing should...

Available. Can ship anywhere in the US.

$500 for both items. Time to get some garage space back!

I assume there is a frequency transducer like the 802/803 units, and probably in the TM for this machine is a testing diag for this part. The gauge will not effect performance of the machine, the gauges are there for operator knowledge only.

Older photos of a machine I had here... needed to change the front oil seal, but same issue with accessing the front of the engine. Just pull it, the effort will offset the frustration

You are going to wish you did remove the end of the machine. If you remove the (2) plastic fan guards, and unbolt all of the bolts along the lower edge of the whole rear sheet metal assembly (engine bay, and hidden to either side of the fuel tank... gotta pull that panel), after the radiator is...

I would find the problem, versus gut the machine. You also gut any potential resale value should you ever need to move it out. I know personally that if I knew of such a 'wire delete' I would question the why and pass on the machine.

Mark its pretty obvious to me now (in hindsight) that this isn't the right solution for your needs. As others have said, you would be better served with a machine that is backed by a servicing dealer and a warranty. I suggest you offer the machine up for sale locally, and get into something...

Right category... just not a very common machine in the masses. I am sure someone who knows something about these will be by this thread. Have you downloaded any troubleshooting manuals for this set? Whats the model number?