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Nothing like sweating over lack of knowledge, to motivate one to not repeat something in the future. Glad you are back up and it got going again easily.

The unit will never start with the battle short in the ON position, nor will it start if a fault has occurred, which has not yet been 'reset'.

See if this does anything... with the dead crank switch set to the normal running position (down) go to the front of the machine and turn the start switch to prime. Pumps run, right? Hold in the reset button on the fault panel, and while holding it down... crank the machine over. Does it do...

Have you cycled your emergency stop button in and out? Do you have any faults lit up on the fault panel, or did you?

Good luck and stay safe all... I saw reports might have the power down for 'weeks to months' after impact. :sick:

https://www.ironwingsales.com/product/centromotionmaximateccstewart-warner-hobbs-div-pressure-switch-313620/

I don't have any, or know of where to get any at the moment... but I have turned over a few rocks. I will let you know if anything scurries out.

The sender and the overtemp are two different items in the set. Disconnect the two wire unit off the water pump, clear the fault at the panel, and see if it runs properly without shutting down. If it does, the overtemp switch is the culprit.

Yes it is, guess I glossed what you wrote. If the flywheel is stationary but the engine turns, I'd agree that you may have a crank issue here.

Drive plate could have sheared too, I've seen that.

They do have air brakes (air over hydraulic), but are disengaged unless air is applied (so opposite of what you would find on an OTR rig that if air pressure fails, the cans lock up). They can be kept in position by the locking hand brakes (and wheel chocks for safety sake).

I refuse to buy anything out of Butner. I've been burned with bad equipment more times than I wish to admit from that site. Good luck with getting this one going.

1200

Yeah, mistype on my part. Thanks

I have four in PA... looking to find homes for them in exchange for a little help. I am looking for some local assistance, either a shop recommendation, or if any of you are local, in removing some generators off of trailers. I have little use for the trailers, but do for the gensets. If anyone...

Well I got the pricing on if folks wanted to do a group buy (as I have overseen those in the past on MEP items) but I think the unit price is too much for most folks. It will be a problem in the future, but I'm not a bank. I'm still sitting on molded hose sets I had fabricated for these...

I don't know of an aftermarket drop in. Are you having issues with your radiator?

If you phase selection switch is set to 240V, then you will want the AM/VM gauge set to 3 o clock, which if you look at the markings on the face plate should denote 1PH, L1-L3 energized, with readings I believe off L3. L1 and L3 will be energized, with Neutral and G completing your wiring.

No it goes into a cavity. There is a bushing at the far end. Here is what the 803 rack looks like (blatantly stolen from an ebay listing):

I wonder if your fuel rack is bent slightly, causing it to hold position fully out (and the sound that you hear). That could account for the change in position of the block on the rack, that the rotating armature of the fuel stop lever needs to hit. Does the curved part of that shutoff look worn...