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Its in the operator cube, back wall.

The OEM unit isn't, but I shared a source a while back on a relatively inexpensive alternate. Milspec, for a diff machine... But works well in place. Just need to modify mounting holes slightly. Searching in the forum should uncover it.

Could be the gauge, could be the freq transducer (which I believe is more prone to failure than the gauge).

So the switch is doing what its supposed to... You are going to want to take the roof off the operator cube and look at the contactor assy for loose collections, corrosion, etc. Its a known problem spot, but typically can be disassembled, deoxidezed, and made to work again (unless waters gotten in).

Yes. Does the green light above it come on when you close the circuit, or does it stay off?

Dumb question, but have you told the machine to send voltage down to the lugs?

The pump is a pretty simple impeller... you will know if its working or not once you've taken it off. I would assume its fine. For the price, you can get just the pump to cylinder head gasket (with o rings for the sleeve that goes into the block) here...

I'd just find the longest standard bolt on jack you can find, and use large U bolts with some square or rectangular steel tubing to make braces below the main deck frame, that you can mount a new leg onto to cheat some length. Maybe something like this...

Available. I do have a spare engine I can sell with this for an additional $250.

I see that now. Thanks

Its a very good deal.

This should work: https://www.amazon.com/CURT-28324-Side-Wind-Mount/dp/B004QEM7J8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 From here: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/m1101-m1102-ltt-tqg-trailer-jack.154286/

Pliers are natures answer to many things

Deoxit is magic in a can. Amazon, lots of places sell it. Its a pretty common 'phantom' condition, caused by corrosion on contacts. The nice thing about Deoxit, is whatever witches brew its made from, actually leaves behind a coating to inhibit future corrosion as well.

Yeah just turn the cap so it locks in place, it'll hold fine. It doesn't get unscrewed by itself, as Ray mentioned...

No the metal interior spiral is thicker than that material.

I once found an intact GI flashlight tucked into the fuel tank area, with panel reattached like nothing had happened.

Springs too thin to be from a busted FSS... plastic unkown. Just trash.

Why not just swap whats on the machine with something more readily available and modern, and source the mate that way?

I can't be of much help, I let the ground do the dampening for me.