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Guy is ruthless. $48 for this (one of many examples up there): https://www.ebay.com/itm/143888415494
In the future if you need a part, ask the forum. I don't want to deny GMG any business, but he wouldn't have even been aware of that part without sleuthing here quietly. @Ray70 I believe was the...
Its not the OEM, but it should work. GMG I assume?
It looks like the most readily available sub that some of us have used, off a Suzuki suv. No bottom drain, and diff top size. Just takes a bit of creativity (block off bottom drain hose, and run an adapter to size down from the overflow hose...
I've never had to take one apart... simply letting them sit in carb cleaner and exercising them has always worked. From the document Guyfang posted a bit back, they appear to assemble in a very straight forward manner. Unless you say locating tabs or items which would help internals maintain...
The case is for sound attenuation. If you mock up a radiator support and want to retain all electronics... just a matter of fabricating up an area to house these items. Is your enclosure in that bad of shape?
I bought a 2.5KW tapered head years ago, to convert over an MEP-501. I believe the engine in that has the same taper as the L70? Its still new in box, would be happy to discuss with you by PM if interested.
Here is who is shown on the Prestolite page... not sure if its helpful.
I would call any local alternator repair shops (if you can even find one) to see if they can service what you have.
That price point has moved up: https://prestolitesuperstore.com/Category/110-489/Prestolite-Leece-Neville-8MR3005C-New-Alternator-8MR-Series-Spool-Mount-type-24V-35A/
Only units I see available right now online. Rebuilding will be cheaper.
That is the droop adjustment. That changes the rate at which the governor plays catchup on load shifts. I don't know if that can be messed with enough to display what you have. You may end up needing to pull that gear cover to inspect the governor linkage and all moving parts in there.
Well the injectors will limit the amount of fuel going into the cylinder, the pump can push as much as it wants, its limited by the orifice sizes in the injector. Your engines definitely got some gremlins at the present time (two do have white smoke at start). I think you may want to pull the...
Yeah it could be a failed alternator, or even a missing FU1 fuse (I put nothing by anyone these days).
If you need panels, let me know. I've got new repro, and actually sitting on 1-2 complete sets of 802 panels at the moment.
Its not the pump, take my word for it. Just cut the capacitor out, and make up a weather tight jump cable to go between your cuts (insulated terminals, shrink tube solder fittings, etc) so you can retain the stock Packard boot.
I would remove the cast iron exhaust manifold and inspect the smoke color and air temperature of each cylinder.
Here is an 802 I had recently worked on. The cylinder nearest the radiator was not getting fuel. Exhaust color was different, and the air coming out was cold.
Before eval...
Yeah you aren't even close to the right operating RPM at that setting. I just took a quick photo of an 802 throttle position on one I am working on in my driveway this weekend... just for conversation purposes. You can see the rough gap between both set screw stops. This machine is dead on at...