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Thats a civie fuel pump for the 230ci (Carter M2090 )., NAPA still sells them ( AFP587 )

HEY I did that so they wouldn't be stuck for the next guy :roll:

Back when I did my 37 I had to divide it between my shop and the garage at the house, also it took a bottle of Beam not beer to get me throught it...hic

That is a tight deadline Don't let (lack of ) time make you cut corners that you'll regret later Keep info and pictures of your progress coming please

If your talking about My (old) WC-21 then I bought her in that condition, A WC collector out in Alaska restored her than sold it to a guy in So.Ga whom I bought it from, I in turn sold it (2003ish) to a good frind of mine who still has it. Darn thing could run circles around my M-37

My howl is louder than the turbo in 5th, can't be good and will be looking for a replacement soon

The V-41 has the same wheelbase as the M-43, which is 126" which is 14" longer in the middle ( between the front and rear wheels ) than the M-37 and reinforced with 1/4" steel plate doubler about 4' long on each frame rail. There is one extra leaf spring on the front packs and two extra on the rears

Trouble is the aux/remote tank fuel pump only transfers the fuel from a remote tank into the genset tank (which you don't have) so that won't work. you'll have to plumb your remote tank supply line into suction/inlet side of the main fuel pump and then you'll have to plumb a seperate hose into...

Its a 1 1/2"long shoulder bolt with 1/4-20 thread. The shoulder bolt keeps you from cranking down on the bolt and crushing the sound panel

Hey ferro whats the story on your avatar

I ran a 160° stat ( napa THM-55 ) in my 37 for years and felt it was fine, other have stated that running a 180° stat (napaTHM-155 ) gets the engine hot enough to burn off moisture & impurities in the oil and makes for a better burn/combustion in the cylinders....I still ran a 160°. NAPA still...

I removed the seats and used a comealong hooked to a steel horse set inside the cab (1200lb rating ) that they sell at Homedepot for $25., other than time consuming very straight forward and simple

Reducing the paint that much will only make it flatter not glossier. I've always been told that the more you reduce a paint the less durable the finish ( which is why rattle can paint jobs don't last as long as a spraygun paint job )

Don't know if its availible but the wix 24764 should work also, it takes a 3/4-16 thread fuel filter but other then that it should be the same ( boltup wise)

"Closest replacement I found was the Wix 24309 " Not a good choice The flow is in the wrong direction so you'd have to do some repiping

I googled the wix # and Rockauto.com has them for $25 RockAuto Parts Catalog

Plastic bulb goes on the end of the swing arm off the fuel sender. The tube with the slits in it is/was a water absorbing device

AGE Congrats on your truck . Please excuse the above post as we have some WINEY NUBEES on this site that get their panties in a knot because another member was a big meanie to them, this would not be much of a issue if the site had a age restriction ( No One under the age of 12 allowed )...

Here's a great independent article done on additives Lubricity Additive Study Results - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

Just for the sake of corrosion/wear between the skids and the pad I would go to home depot and buy some of the asphalt fiber spacers strips that they put in cement expansion joints and put them between the pad and skids ( or even use some PT wood strips )