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you would need a huge 12v alt ... aka.... like 300-400amp to equal a 150-200amp 24v alternator. Your better off to go to what others are doing and that is a commercial 150-200amp 24v alt and a 24v to 12v converter. math sucks but then again.... looking at Marketplace... High Output 12v alts...

You hit idea slightly that has been brewing in ma crazy head. Honestly thinking of adding some slip in points on external rack on my Jeep TJ to slide the poles ( into to plop my cargo cover around it from a M105 trailer... or my LMTV one w/home brewed poles if 105 too small. Thus when flat...

Id say a string to pull shade down (and then tied off to side) may be better simply cause the mechanism/roller etc. would be up more away from road grime, mud etc. Maybe two shades? one at a height of about the top of the military one... so still sorta not in as much grime territory... and...

came across this idea ... hmmmm

???? that post about Montana so your question is a bit misplaced maybe, or you plan move to Montana? PS- info in this thread may have changed dramatically since it came about- thread and that post is around 6 years old.

This RV conversion titling thread pre-dated this forum... it started in the FMTV forum. Here is link. Some may find it helpful. Remember though as well that it is old thread. Your states info may have changed...

they make coolant battery warmers.... or simple tiny car heater core plumbed into battery area

can you point me to some terms to use to find a post where you've mentioned (think you have already) how your doing the alternator excite etc now that you removed the sender.

did you remove oil pressure sender and thusly bypass the solenoids that operate from that sender or add the mechanical one as secondary thing orre?

If your going to add 24v winches then yeah for sure go back to 4 batts.. (and appropriate alternator). If not doing 24v. winches (or 12) then spend cost of two more batts on a diesel fired coolant heater system. That would more roundly serve your needs IMHO

for future reference- captured spring vendor(s) / Part numbers used on M1079 is in the yellow spread parts sheet linked to a top of the FMTV forum. Rubber looked to me like it should work good while ago. My ambo box that came off of a Freighlinter uses rubber isolators. Sadly not really...

what do you see as this being superior over typical captured metal springs... or captured pair of metal springs?

Wonder if that truck was a test bed truck. hence why so many variations of parts included.

people report that issue a lot. Both my breaks (go figure) is not that but the actual part your grab. On two different handles, same issue actually. One leg of it broke off .. eventually followed by the other side. Inside is still all intact and fine. Doors open easy. Had adjusted them...

sorry no one replied. bumping this up for you.

does this help with one of your questions?

ahhh... two good threads and a good post https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/essential-tools-to-have-for-an-fmtv-add-your-02.152218/ https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/dont-leave-home-without-it.196133/ https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/power-distribution-panel-repair.195947/post-2287638

another thread that might be helpful is the tools to carry thread if you do end up driving one home. WIll come back with link on that one.. think I have it in my book marks

PS- this question gets asked once or twice a year.... and answered once / twice a year.. Suggest you consider search thru the old threads... your going to find some answers.. and come up with new questions in your head you didn't even think to ask yet... then pop in here ask those...

as other's hinted at.... not worth getting OEM alternator. Get a 24v alt. 140+amps (200 + if your going to charge camper batts too) and 24v-12v convertor to run the 12v side. You will need to fabricate a alternator bracket. see recent post on how folk have done that by carving out their...