Search results

Just be aware when you replace that braided hose.... metal braided hoses love to saw right thru things.. keep it well away from stuff.

Have you found any info on this in your TM's yet?

A0, A1, A1R truck?? (what year is it) Maybe they are all the same when it comes to Treadle Valve .... best not to assume and include more truck details?

side note.... one of the balancer companies like centramatic also makes a driveshaft balancer that works on similar principle!!! They make tire balancer's like centramatic too. https://www.balancemasters.com/driveshafts

do you have the pump tilted? Pretty sure it is suppose to have some slope. it is part of how a metering pump works on these. This video covers the wear/tear of pump if not angled... but only mentions in fast passing there is possible air lock happening not allowing fuel thru after the air...

Since it appears you left a gap about size, maybe little less f M1079 between front of Habitat and rear of cab... would think one could install a rearward skirt width of cab, with fixed top and drop down bottom. extending from cab as far back toward the habitat as can go yet not interfere with...

Welcome to the Green side :tank:

one thing people forget is that there appears to be nothing wrong with some (or a lot) of solar panel hanging off the back.of a habitat. Could over lap in front too if one is not worried about air underneath trying to rip that one off. (or cab tilt, spare tire lift whacking it) Heck if one is...

lol..... cot / bed. For a second... thought you were throwing out a joke... then realized you meant troop bed not cot bed

check all your Ground and Pos. attachments are clean. Maybe your getting a juice drop? Also once you got that going. Drop to two battery. The alternator will function way way way better and batts will last longer... esp. if you install an aftermarket balancer in the mix

Old thread... but its good to revist. Cab cot/bed- for those with a camp habitat on back? - Guest Bed? - Your sig-other stuck you in the dog house (habitat on FMTV or not) - teen who does not want to sleep in same space as family any more?

.... shade would help AC yes...... but how much is hmmm?? in this case; not sure, since your solar panels have shaded your whole roof already.. and with the time of solar baking on a wall being shorter than on a roof in 24hrs... hmmm??:shrugs: but that discussion is for another thread

appears your willing to think a little out of the box...... so dont limit yourself to leaving ball in bed. Various was around that including flip down ball. https://www.draw-tite.com/product/8339_gooseneck-trailer-hitch-head

. am not an engineer.. looks to me though that angle iron is not up to the task though. WIder and ton of triangulation ribs needed??

can you shoot a pic of this area where bracket/ bolts are at point on the chassis C channel flexing occurred. thanks in advance

Travel trailer. as camper box.. my untested .02 re-fab trailer tongue so it is just under front or barely extended from it. mount trailer ball in front or rear of truck chassis bed area to match (matters which way you face trailer) remove trailer's wheels re-fab the trailer's own suspension...

ahhhhh.. so your bed uses captures spring setup...same as the LMTV M1079 does. (and more and more modern overland bigger rigs do to.) Perfect platform to clamp a camper box too. Extra screws- Bill Caid had similar cabinet etc. issues with his camper(s) strapped even onto the more agile pivot...

ahhhh... ok... when you said rubber bead lock, my mind went to the big rubber run flat/bead lock combo.

much appreciate input. do you know if these balls are evenly distributed on both sides of the rubber run flat orr ? Have you had them apart recent ? Curious if those bearings beat up/break down the rubber bead flat. Would think their would be rubber dust inside if so. Inside wheel paint...

all your answers here https://www.youtube.com/@ollyhondroM715