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Search for 9340011853757 or 9340-01-185-3757, page 255-4, item 55, in the TM 9-2320-280-24P-1 for the original windshield which is bullet resistant.. Many others offer, shop around. Fleabay is a good source and they are getting more expensive by the day. If you are looking for the ballistic...

I was able to get the toe in adjusted to specs. You will need to disconnect the rods from the truck after you took you measurements. Adjust them by turning the ends one at a time (in or out depending on what your goal is) until desired length. I had to put in back into the truck 4 times on one...

. Hey there, yes, I had the very same thing on my newly purchased truck. Follow the story here: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/stuck-tie-rod-ends.220424/ What turned out to be was the last active duty Marine working on these installed two right had ends on one tie rod, and two left...

I hope that is the DOT approved material? I like the idea of getting the tint. For that cost, you could get a pair shipped to you that have the DOT stamp, and are bullet resistant... I needed to replace one, but did both, and am very happy with them. My original window fell victim to a shooting...

. Search for 9340011853757 or 9340-01-185-3757, page 255-4, item 55, in the TM 9-2320-280-24P-1. Many others offer, shop around. Fleabay is a good source and they are getting more expensive by the day. If you are looking for the ballistic windshield, page 226.3, item 36. 2510012892233 or...

. Are the wipers working? Keep in mind, for mobility purposes the windshield folds down and forward to lower the overall height. There are pins on either side if the assembly that hold it in place. With that said, the electrical connection from the truck to the windshield are three metal...

I couldn't tell you, once I saw that I continued to remove the box for more T/S. As soon as I disconnected the under dash connector and tried the switch again, the light did not come back on. So I assumed it is a capacitor powering the system and not a "ghost" exciter. That gave me pause and I...

I couldn't tell you, once I saw that I continued to remove the box for more T/S. As soon as I disconnected the under dash connector and tried the switch again, the light did not come back on. So I assumed it is a capacitor powering the system and not a "ghost" exciter. That gave me pause and I...

Right now I am completely baffled and am asking for a sanity check. I have completely disconnected both batteries, all 4 terminals, and wanted to make sure all power is dissappated before I remove the PCB. To do that I flipped the start switch to run, and the brake light is on o_O What is...

Depending on what happened, feasible to repair, bypass or replace is my guess?

I started on that thread a while back, but until I actually get into the box itself, most doesn't make sense in my noggen. I will be removing the box and opening in the next few days, maybe do some multimeter probing. I would reach out in the next few days via PM with tons of questions. Thanks...

Well, it had to happen at some point... I believe my PCB box went out yesterday. Without any previous symptoms, yesterday tried to start. Cranked for for 10 seconds, no start, filled the garage with white smoke. For some reason I even watched the trucks' voltmeter and no voltage drop or rise...

Hey @HUMMER H1 , I was just searching for different Tachometers and installation methods here on this board, even maybe starting a new thread, then ran across this post of yours. Would you have time to post some pics? Also, would you mind if I hijacked this thread a little bit and asked which...

That will most likely throw a code 37 TCC Brake Switch Stuck On, won't it?

Same here on the super touchy brakes. I wonder if one could make a bent or offset connection rod between the two switches so on activates sooner/later.

My M1123 has the same issue. I opted for the brake switch not being as sensitive as it should be. Others have commented on the brake pedal travel being very short so that the lights only illuminate when half the brake pressure is on. I think RTW and Mogman have contemplated a modification to...

Just to clarify b/c it's not 100% clear the way you are describing: Turn the switch to run only not starting the engine yet, the light stays on. Start the engine and return to run, the light should be off.

Welcome to the forum. Lots of good info and help... Nice looking truck. You're lucky to get some of the deep water fording parts like the exhaust. They did take the CDR valve and most likely the container and valve. Just like on my M1123 that I just got a few months back. I took the liberty...

Sorry to hear. This will for sure make you a stronger person... :confused: Just out of curiosity before you get into wrenching and to cover the basics, did someone refuel and putting gas in by accident? Best of luck.

If all else fails, you can always use or sell the truck as a farm truck (like a tractor or implement), banned to stay on the owners' property. The question that comes up is how much money to sink into it to make it usable for that... I wonder if others could chime in about engine serial numbers...