Search results

The subject says MEP1040.

Yes and no. If you secure all the generator leads you won't do any damage there. The issue you may run into or has already been run into is the injection pump can get tight which will cause some damage if you spin the engine over without first making sure the injection pump is free. First...

One of the MEP1030s I recently picked up was missing a radiator cap. A quick trip through the TM returned a number that I was not able to cross to anything on the civilian side. Not wanting to spend $100 for a radiator cap I took the one from the other unit over to the local auto parts store and...

We used to put string in the cylinder through the plug hole on a gas engine to hold the valves up when we needed to change valve springs trackside.

Over the weekend I got the fuel lines on one of the 803's replaced so I could load test it. Started the unit and warmed it up. It had the normal raw fuel smell the LP engines have before they warm up BUT in this case the smell only decreased some but didn't go away. Hm... I warmed it up and...

She can only talk about the car right now. While she is fixated on it I'm working to get the rest of the generators on the way to their new homes. Then I'll be able to say "What generators??" :ROFLMAO:

oh she is complaining. Just no about generators. The car has become the focus of her dissatisfaction. She finally rode in it last night. I don’t think it was the horrible experience she expected. I did have the exhaust set to “quiet” mode. 😛

2 things... 1. I'm still alive. 2. The wife hasn't complained even a little about all the military generators and heaters. Hm..

Just when I thought I was out of danger, I go and dig myself another hole. :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO: In my defense I have been driving the same car for 23 years.

I think several of us got some of those units. I have a couple that were OK but it looks like 4 of the 6 have sheared couplings. I also found the preservative to be very thick and tacky. I'm expecting to be able to get them going. They are all absolutely pristine and obviously unused. I will...

That is helpful. Its the motor end that is slipping. If its secured with set screws there is the possibility it can be repaired. We shall see soon enough.

I'm thinking about that. Maybe machine one if I have to.

If you are getting a low fuel lockout but no low fuel light, you may have an issue with the alarm panel.

Thanks Guy, That is what read in the -24. I was curious if anyone had ever pulled one and determined if it was a "standard" part or not. I have a few that have failed couplers. I think I know why. The preservative they put in there is pretty thick and has gotten gummy over the years in storage...

I found the manual. Next question, Anyone had any luck finding the pump to motor coupling? Item 5 in the image. I've used the numbers supplied in the manual and I've not been able to cross it to something that is off the shelf. I won't be surprised if they are custom but one can dream.

Does anyone have the parts manual for the H140? TM9-4520-271-24P

Might be a good idea to test the diode and make sure it still works.

That looks like a capacitive level sensor.

Wonder if that diode is broken. They sometimes fracture from vibration.

One thing to do if you don't have any commercial fuel additive on hand is to add about an ounce of 2-stroke oil per gallon of fuel.