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If you don't mind sharing, what's the freight going to cost and for what distance shipped? I've looked at their items before but I imagine freight from Wisconsin to Washington state would cost a pretty penny...

These pics are from a thread on this forum and I wish I could remember which member has this truck but they're dualled 14.00-20s and I think they were over width just like 98G mentioned.

Tonight all I did was adjust the muffler saddle bracket to mate up with the muffler and get all of that cinched down so no new pics tonight. I did want to expand on my flavor of turbo and how I ended up there. What I was shooting for was a divided entry turbo for the improved air velocity/...

Here's some pics of my last batch in the oven. Those door handles are about 4.5 feet high and there's a 55 gallon oil drum on the left side for a sense of scale. You could bake a huge pizza in this thing!

The last batch of parts made it through the oven and the exhaust parts (excluding the heat shield) installed with no problems. Now that the pipe is located i will have to go back and adjust the muffler saddle mount to fit up tight to the muffler. The Torctite clamps on either side of...

The reservoir tank is now fully plumbed and the coolant is back in the system with no leaks! I used a Continental (Goodyear) 52023 (23" long) flexible radiator hose to connect the 90° elbow off the tank to a new 45° elbow that i just finished. Since the cast hose barb on the oil cooler is 30°...

Looking good! Does that engine need any work or is it ready to run?

Thanks Mullaney! The shop is setup inline with a media blasting room, then a downdraft (air only) paint booth, then an oven and they are all able to drive through from one end to the other and they're big enough to fit an extended wheelbase 5 ton or a 10 ton inside. It would be very cool to do...

The copper air horn tube and the braided coolant hoses are now mounted up! Meanwhile, I'm waiting on my last batch of parts to get baked in the oven and I'm waiting on the rubber hose to connect the turbo oil drain pipe to the block and the 45° elbow to connect the 1.25" reservoir coolant...

I mounted up a few of the new brackets with my daughter's help so now the reservoir tank is on for good, the dipstick tube is anchored down and the muffler mount is tied to the block. I also got the air horns bolted on for good with wires connected and I finished forming the copper tube...

Not a big update tonight but I have finished a few more little things. I cut 8" off the bottom of the road draft tube because the first pressure pipe pushed it out over the frame and then I put a hose on it to route between the frame and block again. There was already a hole in the cab sheet...

I guess time will tell and this could be an experiment. If/when it cracks I'll see about getting a bellows section. I'll keep my fingers crossed. That digger project sounds pretty involved. I'm surprised a construction rig would need aftertreatment but then again it is California...

The muffler is hard mounted to the engine, but the chassis connection is not exactly a "hard mount" - it has some rubber isolators that provide a tiny bit of movement (more for vibrations though). That straight section is about 8" long so it's maybe barely long enough for that flex pipe.

Thanks Will and duly noted. So when the truck accelerates will the valve cover torque to the right or torque to the left (driver side)? In your years of wrenching have you ever seen a flex pipe used in a 90° corner?

Thanks! One more round of painting in the booth and I'll have enough parts to bolt everything down for good.

I had to mount up the exhaust to get a measurement for a bracket so I thought I'd throw up a sneak peek pic 😁

I finally tackled the turbo oil drain pipe which I wasn't looking forward to because of compound bends needed to go 10" down, 7.75" inward and 1.75" forward. I took many measurements with squares, plumb bobs, and tape measures. I made a 3d model as best I could and then grabbed a piece of 1"...

The work today involved all sorts of small stuff. To start with i plugged the old air horn bolt holes using some neoprene bonded rubber washers to seal out water & noise (ok, maybe just water...). Now I'm thinking one of these might get removed to run the filter-minder hose up to the turbo...

Not running just yet. I still need to plumb the reservoir tank and build an oil return line before trying to start it.

Manifold is on; torqued to 40 ft-lb w/copper based anti-sieze Turbo with oil line is on; torqued to 32 ft-lb Pressure piping is on; torqued to 65 in-lb (HPS t-bolt spring clamps are rated to 75 in-lb)