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well this looks interesting. make a manafold out of PVC. Place front edge of bed near spare? Run all your vents to it. Put a couple of these on it ..... say on each capped end? https://automotivecustomlighting.com/store/goretex-vent-patchessheet/

what is your facebook name? I can expedite a member request in that group... hmmmmmm.... is it xxx Ludwig?

to help others find that in future searches, that lead them to this thread....... maybe post link?

does not have to be Neihoff 24v. Just use a commercial 24v alt. anyway..... Jerrit now makes a whole kit. Kit also can include AC bracket. Believe it includes serpentine belt upgrade as well. it has been improved since this article...

more discussion on this concept can be found in an old thread here https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/axle-breather-creeper-breather.341422/

honestly I've not understood why more offroad type folk have not gone to something like this. Dont know if they make these larger but guess one could put a few on a manifold to accommodate something larger than a jeep hub. https://trail-gear.com/creeper-breather-kit.html Or even a tank that...

Maybe am being to safety conscious...... don't mind risky-ish offroad travel..... been there / done that / will again just like to cover my bases..... especially in the FMTV's Tin foil cab.

understand...... so its kinda a balance between- tools you have / dont have....... and vision to see what your doing. Real good point on the vision side of things. so sounds like it comes down too.... most folk have drills and have/can easily, get some step bits to put various large holes...

Seem to recall TM's say pinned in when off road..... while discussions in the FMTV forum on this topic tends to say unpinned off road for comfort. IMHO that would be true except maybe in the realm you hit on.... where a flick of cab to one side ....... say as you crest a dune at a slight angle...

home brewed by an Arduino enthusiast; member from here. Far as I know its only been tested on A0 and A1 FMTV's. If the OEM FMTV CTIS controller works fine on M35A3's would reason that this would also work on them..... but that is just a guess.

in a discussion with a machinist he mentioned...... why not just drill/mill a window (or two)? into the cover to measure thru instead.

@DiverDarrell

2020 though...... as in.... would that not be the C7 engine and not the previous engines? anyway...... all the previous part numbers in this thread are for 16lb caps anyway

wow that line lays in nicely.

catch 22 is....... the strongest pull is when most all that line is belayed out... sorta seems then that the trick might be to find that magic balance of keeping not too much on the spool so you get down to recommended final raps on winch pretty easy/yet enough to move you out of the muck or...

yup..... there was a time when take out MRAP 3rds; already with the higher ratio R&P, were not that expensive and even with shipping it was cheaper to swap in a whole MRAP takeout...... even when calculating labor. But that is not the case anymore. R&P swap is way to go now.

that might be a good place to install a generic duck bill drain. Put it on your personal maintenance schedule to open its mouth to drain/check for break down of rubber. THis way you dont have to worry about forgetting to swap plug it when you end up deeper than you expected.

I seem to recall that as part of fording procedure too.

why didn't they just plumb that up with a hose up high to area between cab and bed/box??

how did you decide a 16lb cap was the proper poundage? have seen others say their cap was 14lb... but they upgraded to 15 for to accommodate drive to AZ wonder if they were adjusted up and down to accomidate where they truck would be mostly (Alaska, or Kuwait)