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So true, married here but with limited purchasing permission. I pass up neat things almost daily. It could be a good thing I guess, My back yard doesn't look like a used car lot and I still have most of my retirement fund intact.

That's a nice project to work on if you get it. Are you planning on restoring it to original or keeping it as a camper?

The D in the Vin means Military vehicle not diesel.> The 3 in the Vin after the D means 1 ton.> The J in the Vin means 6.2 diesel. "Just saying" Old Guys Rule

GOOGLE is your friend. It found all the missing D30s Chevrolet produced a D30 model truck. The D30 was a 1-ton truck that was part of the Chevy C/K series of trucks. It was produced from 1975 to 1986. The D30 was equipped with a Dana 60 front axle and a GM 14-bolt rear axle2. The D30 was also...

Maybe the D stood for Diesel?

What happened to all the Ds? Where did they all go?

All CUCVs were 1984 model year specs. K-5 K-10, C-20 C-30 all the same. When ever you order parts, order for a 1984 and you should get the OEM parts Wiper Motor - Front - Remanufactured No rating value average rating value is 0.0 of 5. Read 0 Reviews Same page link. (0) Write a review...

I would be glad to trade my 101A2 with a new camo cover and paint for your 101A3. This way you don't need to swap the tires :sneaky:

Rick, I think you may be losing your "Clout", or maybe your "Reputation" at your truck dealership. They should have come to you first for some simple repair advise before they decided to do a "hack job". These young mechanics now-a-days know it all and don't need us olé-timers anymore.

I'm due for a batterie refresh

I think bad/stuck injectors are causing most if not all of your issues. You mentioned you installed new-remanufactured injectors in an earlier post and your assuming all is good. I bought some rebuilt injectors on ebay a few years back "trying to save some money" and found them to be worse than...

But, "before you pull the trigger", I would confirm that you have a cracked head/s or just need your head gaskets replaced first.

Eastern Surplus has NOS fully dressed. Look under powertrain parts page 53. I bought a pair 5-6 years back and had no issues HM-719 | Cylinder Head 6.2 Liter GM Diesel Engine HMMWV CUCV Chevrolet 6.2 Liter GM Diesel Cylinder Head for HMMWV and CUCV equipped with 6.2 Liter Diesel Engine NSN #...

Sounds like you have a cracked head. It shows up when hot and running, putting your cooling system under pressure "crack expands open". When it cools down it tightens back up and holds your coolant system under pressure. IMHO

Rick, Please assure to all us followers that you pay special attention to and religiously use PPE while sanding the CARC on your projects.

May I suggest: If your just at the "beginning stages of your restoration" you may want to prioritize your repairs first. Run that ride of yours for awhile before you start dumping big dollars in to cosmetics such as the dash pad. There may be more urgent repairs needed that should be tended to...

That gray dash pad is not the original. The originals were a "burgundy/brown" color that matched the door panels and seats. The dash basil is the proper one but the PO must of converted to 12 volt . The non stock 12 volt meter in the dash tells all. Enjoy your restoration project.

Same with me, just messing with the plug fixed mine

Rick Re-glue those corners first. Add wide painter's tape around the decal. Spray WD-40 "directly on a scrubby pad or rag" then add in some elbow grease and your problem will be solved. Just saying . Or is it because you don't own any WD-40

A little squirt of WD-40 and some elbow grease will clean up that jacking decal like new.