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Check the connections on the firewall Buss bar. However, it reads like your starter might be the issue. Also, you shouldn’t have to wait to drive the truck after cold start up. Something with your injection pump or injection pump timing or maybe idle speed isn’t correct.

Since the gear only bolts on one way to the IP. You can turn the crankshaft all you want.

The first picture shows evidence of an electrical arc. Did you do that? The dash wiring picture shows you have several wires cut. I hate to write this because I have done this job twice. But, a new front wiring harness swap might be where you are headed. I see 5 cut wires and you mentioned...

Follow the positive wire from the battery tray. It should go to the starter motor. The number 10 wire mentioned above should come from the starter motor or a connection on the engine hidden by the air filter. Verify voltage along the way and keep following through the firewall until you have no...

If you are paying someone to do this swap then I am sure they will find things that don’t match up and require more time and money to make correct. With that in mind there are people on this site and around the internet with NOS brand new still in the crate M1009 rear axles that can be bought...

How often do you plan to be in 4x4? That is the only time the ratio between the front and rear matters. If you are always on loose surfaces then it won’t matter at all as close as the numbers are.

When you pick it up ask if they reinstalled the isolated ground washers? Those are essential.

What color is the smoke? Fluffy white is coolant. Blue is oil. Dirty white is cold cylinders not firing. Glow plugs. Black is too much fuel.

Is the cable actually breaking or the square end getting rounded smooth? I had success on one of mine by wrapping the square end with a single layer of aluminum foil. That tightened the slop up enough that I don’t remember which truck that was all these years later. Still working good which...

Thanks. I thought I had read that the other day but just looked back at the first post.

I read your first post again and can’t tell if the problem happens only when the air system has air or anytime. The links posted above are good tech to follow if it happens when there is air in the airpack system. If it happens when there is 0 psi in the air system. One suggestion is to adjust...

3 different answers are being given to a single question. Something to plug the hole such as my “Rubber cork” suggestion. A park similar to the OEM part from McMaster Carr. Followed by a OEM type part with a hole in it to be functional with a cable through it.

Rubber cork/plugs at Home Depot work as well.

Put a volt meter on the front battery with it running and see what voltage you get. Then go from there.

Great post! One of mine has gone to just hi speed lately. I will check into that plug. Thanks.

Here is where I got mine. They have the bigger tanks and hangers as well: https://www.lmctruck.com/fuel-system/gas-tanks-parts/csb-1973-91-gas-tank-and-components

Sometimes a new set of motor mounts are really needed. The stock ones can let the engine sag a large amount.

OK. So you are now getting some voltage to the exciter wire but definitely not all that could be getting there. Since you went from 0 to 7 volts by just moving the 2 plugs. Can you unplug them both again and do an Ohm check on that brown wire from end to end? It still could just be a frayed...

Is your resistor bypassed in the glow plug system? Was the 7 volts taken with the engine off and the plugs glowing? Together you would have at most 10 volts with the engine off and the plugs glowing. Since the only thing you did was the firewall plug and the alternator plug check. It seems...

Welcome to the fun. Yes the instrument connector in in the back of the gauge cluster. Treat it with respect and be very nice to it. The little copper tabs bend and break very easily. That by itself could be your problem source. Yes the firewall plug is at the rear of the fuse panel. GM put...