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Mine took massive persuasion to get back to a shape close to fitting. They were actually wadded up in the battery box and it took me a very long time to even figure out what they were when I got the truck from the VFD 23 years ago. I haven’t had them off since I painted the truck in 2006. I...

I’m impressed that not only do you have a rear light wiring cover (at least on the driver side) but that it is straight enough that you dared to remove it and got it back on again. Good job!

I am not trying to get away from the motor mount idea. That could be the problem. However, I did a lift pump replacement a few days ago. I have the Energy Suspension polyurethane mounts on that truck. Removing the supply line was not an issue getting to it or with it being near the...

Pull the check valve that the return line pushes onto. Look inside to see if it has little bitty black pieces up against the glass check ball. If it does, your IP will need to be rebuilt. Near the end of this video the glass ball and black pieces is discussed:

Fuel in the IP, fuel getting to the IP and no place for air to get introduced between the tank and the IP, right? That leaves you either need to keep cranking some more to get fuel to the injectors or you have internal issues with your Injection pump. How many seconds do you figure you have...

Can you hear the solenoid clicking as you plug and unplug the pink wire with the ignition on?

You can get fuel to the IP with an electric pump. But, the engine and pump have to be turning for the fuel to get to the injectors. An electric pump only helps so far. Then it comes down to battery guts and starter health. I replaced both fuel filter hoses and the filter on one of my trucks...

I wasn’t writing about the headlight relay set up. I have that on 3 of my trucks and think it is a worthy addition since my stock wiring hasn’t started smoking or melting. I guess you could run 24 volts through the headlight side of the relays. But, why? 12 volts through lights are available...

I second that. Don’t make a wiring nightmare truck worse by making it more complicated. I have had the Trucklite LED units in one of my trucks 5 years now with excellent light and no issues or sun fading.

As written about above the starter relay is basically above your right foot when it is on the throttle. If that is where the clicking is coming from then also follow the directions above to verify you have 24 volts going to the relay and 24 volts going away from it when the key is turned. The...

Very interesting about the Delo product change. Thanks for sharing.

There is a ground for just about everything inside the truck up above the parking brake pedal. Your roving electrical problems sure seem to fit a bad ground connection. I suggest you make sure that common ground is clean, tight and all the wires plugging into it are securely plugged in.

Yes, the oily white smoke on cold start up is the indicator of failing glow plugs. Ohm check them all again to make sure they are good. This video is for 12 volt CUCV glow plugs, but it gives you the idea of how to check them:

Since issue started at operating temperature you are correct it isn’t a glow plug issue. I was hunting for a stuck open injector or 8 in my last question. But, you have no hydrolock and normal cold starting. That means your injectors are holding back fuel When the engine is off. Does it smoke...

I agree. Dirty white is normally too cold for complete combustion. Does it start right up when cold?

Does it have a coolant smell? Is the smoke puffy cloud white or angry storm cloud white? Puffy white with a coolant whiff leads to head gasket. Dirty white is fuel normally. Have you checked your coolant level with the engine cold? Do you have a way to do a cooling system pressure test?

TM 9-2815-237-34 is the HMMWV engine technical manual. It has everything you are looking for plus more.

The PTO should not be spinning with the clutch pushed down. Combined with your grinding gears. I would suggest looking at the clutch linkage and see if it is still intact.

The ones vertical seem to be M715.

Normally only 1st and reverse can be selected if the PTO is engaged. Get the PTO back to the neutral that the lockout plate will hold the PTO shifter at. It sometimes takes a little wiggling to find that neutral.