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YAHOO! You Always Have Other Options That is what I thought as I read through some of the suggestions I didn't consider before my first reply.

The bolt heads are rounded and you can't turn them to remove the drive shaft? Or, you stripped the threads out of the yoke removing the bolts? Put the transfer case in neutral and you can tow it. Hack saw the yoke straps off and then replace them with the new bolts you already need to buy.

Interesting. Thanks for the link.

What exactly is a “Bubba rope?” Very good point about the M1009 Pintle being weak. Many post and threads already about that.

Don’t forget to pull the speedometer and tachometer cable ends off before you try pulling the cluster. It won’t move far with them still attached no matter how hard you pull.

The starter button gets its power from the on/off switch. As does the buzzer and gauges. Once you confirm the batteries are good. You might want to look at the switch since you said the wires were messed with in the past. I prefer to pull the 3 lever switch out and then work on the on/off...

More Cowdog updates. Life changes have made it so the truck really doesn't get used much at all. I built the thing as a daily driver for our 10 mile round trip commute, trailer puller and camp trip command vehicle. I finished it 2 years ago. It took about a year to sort out all the "I will...

I did urethane engine and transmission on my Cowdog truck. The engine doesn't move and there are no driveline induced vibrations at speed. But, I would not do a diesel with urethane mounts again unless it was for competition use only. Idle vibrations. It just seems harsh at start up, shut...

Stock NA 6.2 air horn went toward the passenger headlight area. The battery gets in the way on a CUCV. Basically, the stock air filter housing is indexed just right for it. Mainly because it is the same as the air filter housing on the civilian trucks.

Yes concerning 12 over 24 volt. ?? Concerning resistor or no resistor. This topic is like a huge Ford/Chevy/Dodge debate. It goes on forever and there is no right answer for everyone. no matter which way you go. The 24 volt starter can stay. 12 volt with firewall resistor removed. Self...

I have had success with a crow foot, universal adapter and a long extension coming in from outside the manifold and closer to the master cylinder than the power steering pump.

Do you mean the fitting for the pressure hose leaving the pump or the adaptor it fits into that is screwed into the pump? A flare nut wrench or better yet, a flare nut crow foot socket/wrench end will work for both. I would suggest figuring out where the leak is above it first, cleaning it...

I have a pan that looks almost exactly like that. Rod bearing furthest from the oil pump complain first when there is no oil. Rods, crank and probably some trimming to get the jagged edges of the #1 and #2 cylinder sleeve smooth again should have you running again. Plus, all the usual rebuild...

It sounds like they are both engaged. Have you ever pulled them apart before just to check conditions?

How warm is warm? Try driving a bit at highway speed and the drifting to a stop without using the brakes. Then check the temperature.

I have a wind scoop that clips onto the header of my Miata. Driving around sunset gets bug parts all over my legs. I wasn't complaining about your design. I know you thought it out very well and have executed the thoughts greatly. I have the same concerns about the water ingestion...

I wonder how good bugs lubricate a turbo? It looks great, but being where you live, that was the first thing I thought of when I saw the scoop on top.

Heater hose clamp? That is pretty much right above the starter.

Glad to read I am not the only one to fail at getting the switch replaced on the bench.

I agree. I did a column swap instead of trying to figure out which of the many discontinued and very expensive switches that then needed to be installed in that nightmare procedure.