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The better question here is, are you sure the gauge is reading correctly? Never trust the gauge unless you have confirmed it is correct.
If you are and 40% load is the best you can pull, sounds like you'd be better off selling the MEP 803A & getting an MEP 802A so you are sized properly. Save...
Not sure what to say. It is what was quoted to me after inputting the information. They called me yesterday evening to confirm everything & it's now on the policy 100%. Hagerty.
Maybe because you have $25,000 in coverage? Your insuring 400% more than me. Also, you may be in an area with higher insurance?
One of the biggest factors with insurance calculation besides the driving record is credit score I've found. If you move close to the top, insurance rates drop a LOT...
$4,500 value.
Everything is good. It is probably because it's my second vehicle on the policy. Like I said via direct message, I like what they had extra for the M1078 & didn't play games with extra VIN digits.
Going to be getting a revised SF-97 with it as a 1988 according to the original build date, not the refurbish.
That made my insurance with collision $51 a year with full coverage. Mush cheaper than the M1078!
:cool:
Okay, I already have an SF-97 in hand with no year on it. Different situation!
Looks like I will be going to Texas Facilities Commission tomorrow to get them to have the SF-97 revised by GSA. If they won't, I'll exchange for a different M1097R1 and make sure it has a year stamped on it.
Yeah, got it from the state. I don't care about the actual year of the truck in reality. I just wanted clarification on how the OP contacted Austin DPS to get it squared away as my tax office can't handle a year not being in there, it might be a challenge. Then when they call the district...
Can you elaborate? I'm in somewhat of the same situation but I got mine directly from Texas Facilities Commission. I don't want to wait on something still like a new SF-97. If I can call & let them know it's some year, I'd be fine.
You still want to service it with a complete kit. If one went bad, the others will. And getting the correct o-ring on there is important or it will fail quickly. I did that. Use what you have to get it going for now but rebuild it fully. It's not worth getting stuck with it leaking when you need...
Are you sure they worked? Do you hear the relays clicking? The hazard switch is missing. If it was replaced with a single pole switch from another spot like it looks like it may have, it may not let any of the signal lights work properly. You need the proper hazard light switch hooked up for...
I'm generally really good. The first three letters off assume got me on this one, I fully admit it. I ignored the warning.
Luckily this was more of a time costly mistake than a money one. And I learned what not to do, all be it the hard way.
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