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Triple Jim should chime in on this one. I've always been told that running the unit at idle would cause damage to the VR. But TripleJim states that running the unit excessively over in hertz would cause the VR to fail. This relates to the 002a and 003a but I would think it would relate to these...
This is why all my units get optima red tops. I know a lot of people talk bad about the optima but I've got several units that I sold 8+years ago using the same batteries. I've also been using a set of optimas for 2 years, for all my testing. They have been completely drained and brought back...
By the way, these are great boards and I bought one of the first models, that I still use on my personal unit today. I have installed several and never had any failure issues.
That's correct. When the board is sent the signal to shutdown, the board sends the signal to the relay to disconnect load. Without the relay, the contactor does not disconnect from the lugs (or load).
No you don't need the relay. Go from terminal 10 on the board to K8 number 12. That will send the signal to activate the contactor. Just remember when you go to shut down, make sure you disconnect the load. the purpose of the relay is to disconnect load so the generator is not trying to supply...
Ok guys, so I put on the float switch module that I received from Evil Dr. porkchop and it fixed my problem. So the one on the unit was bad, then I put another from what I thought was a good unit which was bad and finally a brand new that was bad. When I have time, I'm going to check the...
Yes, I suspect the float switch module which is the box mounted to the right side. The power from S1 pin 5 comes into J15 pin 2 plug right before the module and then goes to P12 pin 2 which is the plug on the float itself. If you jump J15 Pin2 and Pin1 (before the module) it will activate the...
I had another unit like this years ago and I could never figure it out so I sold the generator to someone who was not interested in the aux fuel pump working.
I have several NOS floats so I tried that first to make sure it was not the float. The floats job is to complete the circuit for the aux fuel pump; when the float for the aux fuel system is at the top it cuts the circuit to cutoff the pump. When the float falls, it makes continuity and starts...
Sorry to say it gets worse. I've got several generators, heaters, A/C units, a 1969 deuce and various other goodies from the military. It seems to never stop because I always see something that's a must. HAHA!
Use a battery operated drill and use a screwdriver bit extension, then a 5/16 socket bit. You can usually hold the nuts on the bottom with your hand and loosen them quickly with the screwdriver. After you get use to it, it only takes 5 minutes to take it off. Real easy.
The interesting problem is that its disconnecting the load even with the battle short on. Something is breaking the current flow from the interrupter switch to the K1 contactor. Usually with a bad burden resistor, you will get an overload fault and is easily bypassed by the battle short. I still...
Don't trust the gauges, I wouldn't worry until your low oil pressure fault light comes on. If you need a new radiator cap, they are R28. Any parts store should be able to cross reference. I get mine from Oreilly's auto parts.
I test all my units with a 14kw commercial load bank for at least 6 hours. I've found that 14kw is the max with a per resistance load as with my load bank. Anything over 14kw trips the breaker.
Something your missing when you removed K8. K8 wouldn't effect the 24volt system. Did you check CB1 (DC breaker) and make sure your battle short is not on. DC powers goes to CB1 then emergency stop then to the master switch.
The last couple of ring jobs I've completed on two 803a's, I've just used regular oil. I agree that break in oil is better but the individual wanted the 803a's ready within 2 weeks and he didn't want to go back and change the oil in 100 hours. So I said okay. But they have been running 24/7 for...
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