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Over 3000 when I replaced them.

So far, I've had 800 hours on one and it's done perfect. I had another that failed at 300 because the customer's head gasket blew and he put radiator stop leak in it and caused the pump to leak.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/751-41022-Water-Pump-for-Lister-Petter-LPW-LPWS-LPWT-Engine-Genset-/112198678228?hash=item1a1f8ff6d4:g:cPYAAOSwMVdYIrJo&vxp=mtr I know this is not allowed but kind of hard to find on ebay. You can also use a 750-40621. But on this one I had to mount the temperature...

I take the top radiator hose off at the thermostat and take it loose at the radiator, then rotate the hose so I can put a funnel in it. Then refill until it comes out from the thermostat housing. The thermostat's have a small relief valve that will let a little coolant pass with the thermostat...

Take the oil refill cap off or the dipstick out to see if it has back pressure. It could be the piston rings. If you don't have a large amount of back pressure I would say the valves. You are correct, the valves have no adjustment.

Jim, I sent you an email to stockbox@lakeserv.net. Thank you for taking the time to look at the VR and of course would pay for your time and materials to fix it. Thanks for the great service!

Alright Jim, It looks like R11 resistor on the VR board has failed. I've been slowing testing everything and I'm back at the VR. Could the bad CVT1 have caused the failure? looks like R11 is in conjunction with T2 transformer.

Its immediate swings back and forth. The bad thing is, this unit went through a tier 2 reset in 2007 and has less than 200 hours. Ran perfect when I originally sold it to him. The guy let a family member use it and doesn't know what they did to it.

I put one of TripleJim's VR in the unit and have the problem. So I don't think its the pod on the VR.

Would the rheostat cause this kind of problem?

I rotated the switch several times but forgot to check the voltage in any other position. I'll try that the next time I'm out with it.

GuyFang, I checked the diodes per TM on A4 and they are good. TripleJim it does cycle the same, ie going from 90 up to 130 then back down. It does not go 90 then 130 or anything like that.

Ok guys, I've got a 003a that I sold to a gentlemen. He brought it back because the 56ohm resistor on the rectifier board fried. So I replaced the resistor and got high voltage. I replaced the voltage regulator board with one of TripleJims, still high voltage. Found CVT1 was also bad, so I...

Does it turn over now? When you say panel are you referring to the door missing in the picture?

The only reason I'm posting the link is because it was hard to find on the big auction site. http://www.ebay.com/itm/onan-5k-10k-military-oil-pressure-guage-new-p-n-193a5/360382267700?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

I've read several post that people have used the Beede 12803 but I have personally never replaced it with one.

Check out the sticky 002a or 003a DC charging system test. Sounds like the regulator is bad. If you need one, TripleJim who is a member sells newer versions that far exceed stock. http://www.lakeserv.net/mep/index.html

I've got one a trailer that will be $2500 with around 3000 hours but it looks to have a new engine. I can't confirm the new engine but looks new compared to the genset. The trailer is junk, the pintle hitch is twisted slightly. It will also have 2 new optima red tops when I'm finished.

That price on the 5168 hour unit is high. I just sold an 803a with 2600hours for $2500 with new optima red tops. But I will say that prices at the auction have been increasing and prices are around $2,000 plus before taxes now.

You'll need a small torch and small punch. Take everything off the panel and remove with the studs in place. I use a vise and small jig to hold the panel and stud at the same time. Heat the stud and then hit the pin with the small punch. You can also just hold the panel with the vise as close...