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Nothing is hacked and I checked all the connections in the schematic for the aux pump to make sure they are tight. The one weird thing is, that I can jump Pin 1&2 on J15 connector before the float module and the pump will start working. If I jump Pin 1&2 after the module, nothing. Ive tried 2...

Just get a kill-a-watt meter or buy an aftermarket meter and make a custom holder. The transducers are huge problems and you wont find a new one anywhere. So you'll be buying a used one and no telling how long it will last.

I'm here to help. Just because it has 1400 hours on it doesn't mean someone hasn't been monkeying around in there. I had a reverse connection on s8 one time, that was causing an overload fault and it had 2500 hours on it. I would swap the overload relay first just because that is the only common...

I would look at the wiring diagram and make sure everything is hooked to S8, K1, and S5 correctly. I would first try to swap the overload relay first because the battle short bypasses that internally with a relay. Something is sending the signal for the overload and disconnecting the load at K1...

Did you notice if the short circuit light came on when you lost power with the battle short on. With the battle short on it still passes through the overload relay so if something is going on inside the relay it could cause your problem. A short circuit is the only thing the battle short will...

Multi meter with the red wire to pin 27 and the black to any ground (there's a ground wire in the back to the left).

Mice urine will eat through the metal and plastic making a loose connection. As you know, when you have a loose connection with electricity it causes heat. The heat caused the nest to catch fire. Probably came loose when you were transferring from one house to another. Time to seal up all the...

Just obtained unit, so new to me. Apparently while in service with the military they had the same issue because they hard wired into the main pump. So while the main pump was on so was the aux pump. I changed the float module with 2 other modules which I know work and still the same effect. I...

Look at the voltage regulator and the wires hooked to it. Take number 17 off and wrap it up with tape and restart. See if it doesn't generate power? Make sure its not hooked to anything because it should be making 130-140 volts at the outlets.

No it has a starter lockout so when it gets up to around 1000 rpms it disengages the starter and can't be engaged again.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=631484&d=1467578369 Look under the -34 manual which is attached. Look for the diagnostic for no power and it will run through several things to check. It's either Voltage Regulator, a transformer, exciter board or a diode in the head...

Did anyone find an solution to this problem? I'm having a similar issue. I'm losing voltage after the float module, I can unplug the pump and I get 24 volts but as soon as I hook the pump up, it drops to 7 volts. So I changed the pump with a brand new one and still have the issue. Then I changed...

Did you by chance look inside the thermostat housing to make sure a thermostat was in it? I've had a few where they removed them and ran the same temperatures as yours. You can get a new thermostat from any parts store (Murray ultra 15358 with gasket 2138 ).

Looks like they tried the ole screw driver through the filter trick, which never works!

When the batteries are low it will read to the far right above 24+. Then after the batteries charge it will read 0.

You shouldn't have any draw when off. I only start my personal units every 6 months and never have an issue. As CapePrep stated, the alternator is usually the root cause of excessive battery drain due to internal diode shorting. You can rebuild them for less than $40 and its simple to do.

Sometimes if they have been sitting for a while, it may take a while for it to start. It has to bleed the air out of the hard lines. Crank for 45 seconds, then wait 2 minutes for the starter to cool and try again. If it doesn't start with 5-6 tries of that, then the injector pumps are stuck.

The canisters are sometimes put on to tight which causes warping. You'll have to turn the canister until you find the sweet spot where it's sitting correctly in the base. Also make sure the canister lip is not damaged. The oring at the head of the bolt should keep it from seeping around. If it's...

Does it bog down where it shuts off? Does it sound like its shutting off? Could be the fuel pump is failing and can't keep up with the needed flow. Since the motor is demanding more fuel as your load increases, means the fuel pump will pump faster and run hotter.

There are little notches for the screw driver to fit into and pry. You'll barely lift the motor up, then put blocks under the head, then lower and separate by pulling the motor towards the radiator (but of course the radiator is gone now). Sometimes I have to use a bearing puller on the rear of...