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Mine had the set screw, but it was so corroded on there I had to destroy the wiper pivots to get them off. Word of advice: if you have to remove the wiper pivots, disconnect the linkage from the inside before attempting to unscrew the large nut on the outside. I didnt do that and it turned a...

Of course I didn't! Lol

I had a check valve fail on a jeep once. When you shut the vehicle off, the fuel would eventually run back into the tank and you'd lose your prime. The next time you tried to start it, it would take considerable time for the fuel to fill the lines again. What check valve(s) are on the humvee...

Got the reverse switch installed on my shifter. What a pain in the ass! Took two people and multiple socket extensions to get the 4 shifter bolts out, then getting it back together was even harder. They sure don't make those 4 nuts on the underside easy to get to! They should have used rivnuts...

Good suggestion on the fan, I'll inspect the clutch and see if its working. I have no clue about the thermostat, but that was my first thought. Its an auction truck so who knows. Honestly I'm not sure how to diagnose a stuck open thermostat other than by observing the symptoms. I could remove...

I ended up driving it around the backyard (yes you read that right) for about 20 minutes and it finally got into the middle-ish of the green zone on the thermostat. But as soon as I stopped and let it idle again, the temp came down to the lowest part of the green band. Seems like it just wants...

I'm gonna guess he's from Carmel Indiana. Lol 🤣 I don't have an answer, but welcome!

If your voltage is in the yellow and your tach doesnt work, maybe the issues are related. Both seem to indicate an alternator output issue. I would start troubleshooting the alternator.

When the tach wasnt working on my M1151, it turned out to be 2 wires that go to the AC output of the regulator on the alternator that were not plugged in.

After googling this, it seems like diesel engines generally dont warm up just sitting at idle. Apparently they really need a load to generate enough heat. Trouble is my truck is not street legal yet. I have access to a pretty large parking lot though, I will see if I can drive it in circles for...

I used a catch pan, and then poured the old stuff into the empty containers from the new stuff. Then added to the pile of old fluids I have stored. Unfortunately I havent found a local place that accepts coolant yet so I have tons of it. Used motor oil is way easier to dispose.

Well let's just call it a semi fluid change, still had the original coolant in it from when the marines had it. Now it has 2.5 gallons of new stuff. I'll do a full flush later.

I changed my temperature sensor (only to find that it didnt fix my problem), inspected both front spindle nuts and changed the hub oil, changed the front diff oil, and installed the upgraded washer nozzles (only to find that my washer pump is bad). So I guess a good and bad day. In case anyone...

I do have the numbers from one of CAMO's posts, but my temp simply hasnt gotten high enough to verify against those numbers. I didnt feel the thermostat housing directly but I felt the upper radiator hose which did seem to get pretty hot.

Well I thought I had a temperature sender problem, but now I think I have a thermostat problem. Symptom: temp gauge never moves Troubleshooting steps: 1. Connected sender input on gauge to ground. Needle goes full scale, indicating that the gauge is likely not bad. 2. Measured sender ohms to...

It one of the three wires that plugs into the back of the start lever. You can also put a hidden switch in line with 11a.

Unplugging wire 11A helps too.

The GVWR of my M1151a1 is 15,500 lbs 😮

:ROFLMAO:

I agree completely, plus the cable will allow you to partially open the valve if you want to control the temperature. I plan to do this mod once I'm done with the more important mechanical things on my truck. I believe it should be a pretty easy drop-in using the parts from an m998.