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Did I say anything to indicate that I was playing fast and loose with safety? I said I am reading and complying with the material safety data sheets, which is what everyone should do when handling any chemical. Saying paint should be banned because its dangerous is like saying guns should be...

By the way I found a place that will sell it to me. Feel free to PM me for details.

This post is full of sensationalism. There are 5 different types of CARC and they have become much safer over the years. I'm going to be using low VOC type IV waterborn CARC which is much different than what was sprayed decades ago. I already obtained and reviewed the MSDS sheet for type IV...

Not all heros wear capes :ROFLMAO:

Yeah that's Gillespie paint, same stuff that Rapco sells. I've used it before and it's not bad paint. It's just not 100% as flat as CARC, and I want to stay authentic as possible.

So glad the government is keeping us safe from paint, meanwhile giving fully armored humvees to the taliban :rolleyes: I just want to spray the stuff outdoors with a respirator, looking to buy the water based stuff. Shouldn't be a big deal.

I only want real CARC, Rapco just doesn't look right to me. I know people have gotten it, just don't know where.

Anyone know where to purchase real CARC paint? Sherwin Williams is giving me the run around, and MilSpray told me they cannot sell CARC to civilians.

West Kentucky Surplus. They are a pretty accurate reproduction of a standard X door, and most importantly you can actually find them! The doors are unrelated to my stop at Mac Motors, that was just for some odds and ends.

Stopped by Mac Motors, grabbed a bunch of parts, fixed my tachometer, and got 2 doors installed!

Well at least I got my issue resolved, thanks everyone for the help!

Its an M1151A1

Tachometer works now!!!!

I double checked, and 2C is actually a ring lug. 2B is a packard conector (male housing, female pin). Conveniently, 2C will plug into 2A, and the ring lug can go on the AC output of the alternator regulator. I'm gonna try that and see what happens.

Wait a minute, here is the copy of that TM I'm looking at, which only goes up to page 953: https://www.hmmwvinscale.com/ARMY%20TM%209-2320-280-20-2%20Technical%20Manual%20Unit%20Maintenance.pdf And you're saying that A B and C can all just be spliced together?

Interesting, thanks! I think that's probably something that was removed at some point. Pretty sure I don't have an arctic heater but I'll take a closer look tonight.

There is 2A that goes to the generator. But I dont have any open terminals on the generator at this point, and I dont have any charging issues that I know of.

I've searched the TM for 2B and 2C but got zero results. I also searched this website and google, but found nothing. I have 2 wires dangling under the hood, labeled 2B and 2C. One is male and one is female (I think?). They are part of the same wiring harness with no other wires, and they run...

That definitely seems better. You still wont be able to drive with 100% no lights (you'll need blackout lights at a minimum which isnt fully stealth). However I'd say that anyone close enough to see your blackout lights are going to hear the engine long before they see you. Personally I'd still...

Well the good news is I get ZERO smoke or vapor coming out of the oil fill neck when its running. So I'm guessing everything is fine?