Search results

Usually when you have holes put into the fuel tank, it usually meant catastrophic failure of the genset and they didn't want it used. But the hole you have may have just been a accident. I've seen them drill several holes all over the tank when the genset was no good.

Yes it would. Looks like the return line was leaking up top and they bypassed it. That line should go to the injectors and the force of the pump pushes the excess fluid from the injectors back to the tank. The excess fuel from the injectors is not being pushed out of the return lines so your...

Usually, they will short to ground when they fail, which in turns pops the DC breaker on the front panel. Just keep that in the back of your mind. They will usually fail when you really need the genset to work.

It's not a fuse. It's a capacitor that you do not need. Cut it out and splice the wires together. It's what the military uses so the pumps electrical current does not interfere with sensitive electronics. It does not effect anything with our use.

Start with the Positive on the starter solenoid, then take the neg of that battery to the positive of the other battery. Finally the negative will go to the ground on the bell housing.

Good Job! Did you access the oil pressure relief valve from the front cover or did you take the side cover off?

Bypass the transducer. Just take the wires off the transducer and connect the wires on the left, to the wires on the right. Then you just use the wires that were originally connected to the original hertz gauge for your new gauge.

I've had a couple of units that needed a better ground for the solenoid. I connected a wire from the negative side of the solenoid, to the bolt that holds it down. It may not work in your situation but its worth a try.

Usually won't seize the motor, you'll blow the head gasket first. The sensor that controls the high coolant temperature fault is located on the water pump and has 2 wires hooked to it. When it overheats it completes the circuit, so you can take one wire off and see if it makes the fault go away...

Instead of swapping the fuel pumps, you may want to do a flow test when its cold and then when its hot. Just unhook the hard line going from the pump and slide a rubber hose over that end and put the other in a gas jar. Then turn the pump on for 1 minute and see if its putting out the same...

Really sounds like a similar situation I had once. Ran perfect when first started, then after about 10 minutes die and could not restart, then after 15 minutes it would restart. Finally found that I had some foreign matter (looked like a pieces of paper towel) in the tank. It would come...

They are talking about the 003a. The 803a's do not have screens in the fuel pumps and do not have the check valve.

Something is wrong with the hertz but it may level out after you put some hours on it.

More than likely the voltage regulator. There are 2 adjustable pods on the voltage regulator R16 and R15 (I think), use a very small flat head screw driver and make 1 full rotation, then move it back to the original position. See if that helps.

I wanted to let you know that I just finished up on a 803a that had previous work completed by someone else and I was having overload and voltage gauge issues. Took me about a week but I used the wiring diagram and traced ever wire that ran from the burden resistors, K8, S8 and S6. Found that 2...

TNriverjet did you ever get the generator to not trip the overload?

002a and 003a don't need to be jumped started with out batteries because it will hurt the DC voltage regulators. 802a and 803a should be fine.

Update: So I sent the VR back to Jim, he received it Friday and reported the resistor that I thought failed was good but went ahead and replaced it. Had it back in the mail the same day!!! You can't beat the service TripleJim has on the VR's, this includes DC regulators. So today, I took my VR...

I would like to know who is buying these for the ridiculous prices. I cover craigslist, ebay, and several other sites looking for military generators to resale but never came across anyone selling one for $7,000+ to re-coop their monies. Most people with money want to buy something ready for...

If its the rubber lines that go to the injector pumps, use a small cutoff wheel and cut the metal clamp off, that connects the rubber hose to the metal line. Then use hose clamps to hold the rubber hose to the metal. Go ahead and replace all of them if one is leaking because the rest will follow...