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PSA started selling Caliber Coffee. I tried it & it's not to bad; https://bit.ly/40nASpH

What is the part number on the package, if you don't mind sharing?

I'm just that happy I left Connecticut. And I'm sarcastic. But I will stop distracting now.

I moved to south Texas. That worked pretty well. In 10 years, I have seen snow 3 times. :p I will stop helping now.

BRCC sold out to a not-so-friendly investment company that doesn't actually like people like us, but are happy to own a brand that takes our money, then invest it in things that work against us. Not to mention all the other questionable things that have been proven about the people affiliated...

Pinout is different due to how they communicate with other things on the vehicle. They are not interchangable. I think there is a warning in PS Monthly about there being a risk of damage if you do.

Cool project.

Checking the level covered in this short video; https://www.youtube.com/shorts/JL00Du9v5TU Also, I go a bit more in depth about it all in this video;

Capacities are covered in this short video; https://www.youtube.com/shorts/VJ6ZjpcgrQQ

I know someone who got a few pallets of these & saw them. The bulk of them is the brackets for the MRAP. Definitely a cool set. I wouldn't mind one, but have so many other things to do, I don't need to stack another bunch of boxes up. The IR stuff would be great for driving with night vision.

As the title says, I FINALLY made a nice, boring video on how to completely go through a wheel valve assembly and rebuild it, what is needed, and some of the variations. Hopefully it is helpful to some of you;

Good find. I'm sure it can still be cleaned up. Usually they will get loose if they're worn out, not tight.

I have not started my new thread on the second M116A3 build out, and this would be for it, but it's relevant here as well. It's missing one wheel stud. Search quick thinking it would be a simple find. Guess it isn't. Technical Manual has part number 12354223 as the stud. I'd guess that is a...

That's a frustrating one. I'm sorry. We all have one project like that. Beyond me! I'm sure, like you are guessing, it's something stupid. I wonder if at some point, an injection pump was removed improperly and the rack is ever so slightly bent, causing just enough drag & when it's hot it gets...

Have you removed the injection pumps? Do it one by one, it will be easier. I made this video to show details, though you probably know this with how much you have looked.

Just because you are getting fuel out the end of the end and back at the tank, doesn't mean the small length from the injector(s) to the T, or even the nipple in the T, doesn't have an obstruction. If you think about it, old fuel may settle in the 1 inch or so. After years, diesel will get nasty...

Seems the original poster got his machine going, but here are some things that I would have also tried for others that may find this thread down the road; -Confirm there was no obstructions in the fuel return lines from the injectors. On smaller Yanmar engines, I have seen them kinked, and...

They look like this. Has a sprayer & some of the mix packets in it in the storage area. There is a spot to mount one on the FMTV as well, on top of the air hydraulic pump.

Well, a very long day, nearly 1,000 miles & 18 hours of driving later, it is home! Cut the bolts and moved the lunette down. Didn't bother with trying to flip it. Put on temporary lights and secured them. Anything that would tall off the trailer, I put in my truck... wasn't much. Looked it...

I think I have some extra varistors. Send me a direct message & I will send you one. Of course if I still have some!!