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so do the LD MF's have the same coolant-infused intake as the LDTs?

oh, and i almost forgot the most important aspect to answering whether this is 'Myth' or 'Fact': if the coolant in the intake manifold is intended to act as a form of 'charge air cooling', then is this same manifold not found on the non-turbo'd MFs...?

i'm having trouble with this statement. this is the closest work-up i can find in the same pressure ranges - it shows the temperature increase of the intake air charge to be 115°F (after several assumptions are made) for an intake charge of 8 psi. now, 8 psi is probably the max boost a MF is...

i know that the needle in my fuel gauge sticks. sometimes it's stuck at 1/2, other times it goes up to 3/4. every now and again it makes it back up to 4/4. :roll: i've flipped the switch on and off a few times and have watched the needle unstick from 1/2 and go higher.

if i understand the system correctly, not catastrophically and you will only lose air (from the wet tank) when attempting to turn in the failed direction of the cylinder.

this will sound like an incredibly stoopid question, but why would i need a relief port at this valve? i haven't taken it off, but thought it was just a ball valve. i have blow-off valves on my tank - what value is a relief port at this valve?

so i actually used this valve the other weekend and now it is leaking like a sieve from the valve handle (both sides). did anyone find a source for this valve? if not, does anyone have one in good operable (i.e. air tight) condition? or has anyone found a suitable alternative?

you guys have successfully harnessed fission??? that's great news!!!

'industrial'? i think that may be a stretch... the Ford 6.0 was offered in med duty trucks with higher GVWRs than the D-max Kodiaks (IIRC?), and even I wouldn't call the 6.0 'industrial'. :beer: anyway - any modern (or previous 3 generations) diesel over 3.8 liters would be a significant...

couldn't have said it better myself. and that's twice now.

yeah, 'cause that's just like how the equalizer works. schooled me on that one. :roll: intelligence. now can you spell 'ironic'? you're right George, about everything. hey, everyone: go buy George's stuff. it's super cheap (but i'm sure it's the hi-quality China alternators). and...

ok, done. my truck will exceed those speeds originally posted and i'm running 1600's. that said, the OP has a lot more to consider than just adding tires. i don't normally drive those speeds. heck, i don't even use the interstate just because i prefer to go for a drive rather than get...

i don't know about being a fool, but the point is valid and something i actually considered when doing my swap. the problem i found is that the available 4wd transfers all have a slip-yoke outputs - something i hate, but also something that would eliminate a park brake option. the cost of...

again - you guys need to study the diagram. the equalizer is simply connected to the battery terminals. period. nothing is attached to the alternator, nothing is 'spliced', nothing is interupted. the only thing it does is moderate the voltage between the two batteries completely seperate of the...

you want to study that diagram again?

since you're making an effort to poo-poo the equalizer, what failure mode of the equalizer is lesser than your *for sale* kit? and what's the failure rate of compared components (equalizer vs China alternator)? since you're making statements, you must know the answer...

read all 3 pages and then see if 1-wire alternators are the best option (or wiring a 3-wire alternators to act as 1-wire). tm america - what's the box part store part number for this $30 alternator?

'easy'? i'm skeptical of the OE component ultimate strength...

since no one else will take a new member serious in the chance that he/she is not some ubiquitous troll, i'll answer. :roll: i've recently finished what you have suggested, everything except for a 'jake brake'. but with the discs, you won't need any other braking support. it isn't that...

you use 1-wire alternators?