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i can tell you right now that there's no 'hot' in that motor. you won't be getting much, if anything, for it.

no, because when the control is in the 'open' position, there is no pressure in the system. you'd have to run the hoist valve from the outlet of the winch valve and then back to tank. but your hoist valve needs to be 'open' center / spool-type.

finding an A3 specific winch control valve might be difficult, but there's no reason that you could not use a standard commercial control valve. if you want to minimize your hose runs and be able to 'lock out' the dump control valve then you can always put in a 24V solenoid manifold; they...

shut-off solenoid?

sweet. post up (or PM me) info on your other kits (i.e. 2") if you are ready.

this has been discussed and debunked - the intake manifold does not function as an intercooler. the design is, in fact, to warm the intake air charge. however, i believe adding an actual intercooler will help to reduce EGTs and allow you to run more fuel. but i wonder how much fuel and boost...

some claim that the D turbo will make more boost than the C turbo.

read this thread: LDS vs LDT the real differences. essentially, the only differences are the pistons, injection pump, injectors, and intake rocker arms. everything else (including camshaft) can be found in both LDTs and LDSs. don't know about the oil pump, though - don't remember it being...

caveman is Jim - he did the bob, rebuild, and lift on my truck. he does amazing work. on that truck the fuel tank is in the bed. and, i'm not looking at the pic right now, but i think those are the 49" tires. typically he uses deuce front springs in the rear (he did on mine). if you want...

i had to research this once: IIRC, it does have the highest peak rating but the crane on the M983 was higher capacity at farther reach. if i remember that correctly... i agree w/ you on the outriggers - they are the nicest of the HEMTTs. however, if the ground is soft, consider putting an...

oh, boy....... someone lied to you. i'll put it to you this way: if you ever intend to leave pavement, or even find youself on poorly paved roads, then you should consider padding the interior of the roof so it hurts less.

you'll only improve your turning radius by locating the axle forward of the tandem centerline (forward of the trunion).

turning radius would get even worse and ride would be more harsh (if the rear suspension was fairly stiff for load control). i really don't see the huge advantage to single-ing the rear unless you're shortening the wheelbase and/or bob'ing it. 2cents

at first i thought it should go straight up. but i think it should curve down and flow along the ground for a bit before turning out just like the 'zoomy' headers would do. that's the best use for a MF that i've seen yet. [thumbzup]

so a vehicle in tow is a 'trailer' as long as it also has historic plates? sounds sketchy... back on subject - i want your HEMTT... :razz:

i know it will start an argument, but i don't see the difference when it comes to registration - doing anything w/ an MV besides driving it to/from show events or parades would likely be outside of the operating assumptions of the historic plate. and i'd say towing another vehicle w/ a towbar...

why would you ever towbar anything behind a HEMTT wrecker?? :doh: pick it up and tow it like it was designed to be towed. towing w/ the retrieval system is much safer than flat-towing.

someone has lied to you, badly. a set of wild stage 4 injectors would be a little more than $1k, but that's crazy fuel. you can get a set of replacement injectors for $400 and some mild injectors for about the same or a few bucks more.

Post #3.

for mud trucks and rock crawlers, yes... but not for the GVW of a deuce.