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Here's a pretty decent how-too on the axle boot job that might come in handy, too. Had to dig it up on another hard drive since the How-To section is long gone...

With OD fever running a close 2nd?

The square protectors over the front turn signals? My 1969 has square protectors, but then again, it did go through some sort of depot rebuild in the 80s. Perhaps the square ones started showing up when they switched from the old, round M-series lights to the composite lights?

Reading some critical reviews of this study, it looks like the study actually was rather inconclusive. It appears that their (the authors and investigators in the study) conclusion was a bit of a stretch (not too much of a stretch for a scientific study, but there are definitely some major...

According to the LO, the capacity for the differential is 6 quarts. According to Note 6 (page 31 of the pdf) in the LO, you should "Check level to within 1/2" of level plug opening." Therefore, yes, you fill it up to the level of the fill plug. This should be about 6 quarts.

Nice job getting her home! Probably the smoothest recovery I've seen in a while. The blow-by-blow updates from your phone were a nice touch, too. Enjoy your truck, and thanks to WM for facilitating this gentleman's entree into the hobby, too!

Here's the link to the Lube Order for the Deuce. This .pdf includes the type of lubricant (80/90 weight gear oil for the transmission, for instance), the capacity, and the fill location for everything on the truck. http://test.steelsoldiers.com/upload/M35/LO9-2320-209-12-1.pdf

I'd be interested both in an engine and helping in the recovery/pickup/inspection, too, if this pans out.

Also, here's a how-to for posting pictures directly to the site: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/forum-tips-tricks/59917-how-post-pictures-tutorial.html

Two potential options for that line: 1) there is a brass fitting that goes in the master cylinder cap that connects the M/C cap to that line (the line is the master cylinder vent line) 2) cap the line and put a spring-loaded breather cap (like the little black ones on your axles) in the M/C cap

The 9N/2N tugs were also known as "Moto-tugs"

Have you pulled the horn off and tested just the horn to make sure that it actually works? If you remove the solenoid from between the trumpets, you can put a 1/4" quick-connect on there and hook it right up to an compressed air supply.

If you're having trouble posting pictures, here's a how-to: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/forum-tips-tricks/59917-how-post-pictures-tutorial.html

Sounds like a success. Glad y'all made it back safely and in one piece.

Sounds and looks good! Y'all have got me motivated to get back working on my M37 some this summer. Keep us posted!

Good to know. Does the extra lubrication on the threads of the thread sealant affect the torque values at all? Reason I'm asking is that when we put ours back together, we were cautioned not to put anything on the threads as it would interfere with the torque values when torquing the head bolts...

What do you mean by "resealing" the head bolts?

How are you recovering this? (Driving, flat-towing, truck-and-trailer, etc..)

Every M-series truck that uses that cab (the M44, M809, and M39 series trucks) has a leg mount by the passenger door.

****, I want it for myself! I'd sure relish a chance to see that in person.