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That is the front running theory.
Something is allowing air to be retained in the major cylinder of the AirPack and holding residual pressure. Either the hydraulic side is hanging and sending the air there, or the air cannot vent properly after being applied.
I would guess that the brakes are...
Find someone with a brake pressure gauge and stop replacing parts blindly.
You need the gauge, and half dozen fittings to adapt into the lines.
You have residual hydraulic pressure in the system. It can only come from:
A: Master Cylinder not releasing completely.
B: Airpack not releasing...
Just my opinion...
The singled Deuce with anything smaller than a 14.5 looks really wrong. The worst look possible being the number of single trucks with 9x20's I'm seeing.
Dual 1100s would seem the most practical choice if you plan on cross-country trips without spares.
Best appearance at...
Considering the similarity of the colors, and the distance between the dissimilar colored parts when installed, I would consider repainting either to be premature until after the paint has fully cured to ensure it isn't a less significant issue that it at first appears.
I forgot about this thread!
To save bandwidth cost I would say just start a video link thread(s)
Heavysteven, for instance, has some really great informational vids, and I bet if we all looked in our YouTube favorites file we would find a good number to link.
Before we create the threads...
So, you just need an old engine hoist. Ram, adjustable arm, pins, use the slide in-leg as your slide-down grounded foot. Easily managed as parts, and easy to find as source material.
You have double checked the shut-down right? That is the number one source of "Ran fine then nothing" threads. With loss of the button or bowtie washer a close second and third....
No need to do too much design work... we are talking a hinge, a mounting flange with a winch of some kind, and a latch of some kind to secure both the tire and the arm.
Hinges: Wheel bearings can take the load and are cheap/free depending upon scrounging ability. One high, one low... "A" frame...
I started the major paint stripping process. First pass with pressure washer, then needle scaler on anything loose, followed by grinder and polycarbide wheels on the big flat areas.
I have the fender, engine side cover passenger door, and a chunk of the hood down to bare steel and phosphated...
Some people consider those to be "studs," as in "Lug Studs," because they are retained by knurling.
I believe you are both talking about the same thing.
I was researching it after you mentioned the nominal size and noticed cedar 4x4s from various suppliers was listed at 3.75, and most of the "normal" lumber was listed at 3.5x3.5.
I have only three theories. The treated 4x4s are cut to match the dimensions of cedar as the traditional outdoor...
I measured the lumber myself. I can tell you with certainty Home Depot 4x4 pressure treated posts are/were 3 3/4. (Within a 1/16th)
Perhaps there is more variation in treated vs untreated. Wood is not my bag. Frankly, I hate carpentry. But of this I am certain because it was in my hands and on...
I have been looking at my peeling and splintered troop seats as well. They measure 3 inches wide by 3/4" thick and around 12 feet long on my M35A2.
A 12' 4x4 is really 3 3/4" square... a nice saw (Preferably a bandsaw) can turn that into 6 12 foot long 3inch wide by (just under after the kerf)...
Is there any restriction with one? (no)
So, no.
But it would weigh something... plus cause more wind resistance... so you could think of it as a slight upgrade to the braking system.
Could be slobber tube... but the way the fan blows stuff around your only way to be certain is a good degreasing of the engine and then running it to find the leak.
Does your oil smell like diesel? Has your FDC been bypassed?
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