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IN Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Not much fun if you were infantry on foot though. [emoji848] Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

4D-454C is generally a turbo for an LDS-427-2 which I would describe as the appropriate OE multi-fuel engine for an A1 truck. Given how parts get mixed and matched over time, there's no guarantee on that.

The R is for the competitive rebuy contract awarded in 2003.

The best flexible rubber fuel line replacement is Viton. The price can get scary in larger sizes. 4mm soft Viton is around $4 a foot. It's available from McMaster-Carr among others. It definitely outlasts standard fuel line for diesel.

IN Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?134679-M-series-flasher-relay-civvy-conversion-how-to

That part number shows as an HMMWV 4 man soft top handrail, left side.

These trucks are in the category of "If there aint't no oil under it, there ain't no oil in it." Welcome to the insanity! I went for extra long insanity with an M36A2.

I've been buying VDO gauges that come with the matching sender. That way way i don't have to think too hard about it. Many of the VDO gauges are available in 24 volt versions or 12/24 volt version for the ones with LED lighting. The Viewline Onyx gauges are ~$60 with the matching sender and...

A 1225 CCA battery would be a bit excessive for an 803. Their powersports sized batteries are a bit less eye watering in the price tag.

I'm in for the 2.5 ton version.

I would add proper usage of wheel chocks also.

A Hubbell HBL2620SW fits in almost perfectly where the canvas sleeve is on the cable exit. That's a NEMA 4 rated L6-30R with a latching cover.

Have a look at this thread. Conversion to a civilian flasher. This will allow you to use an LED compatible unit that is way more reliable than the military ones. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?134679-M-series-flasher-relay-civvy-conversion-how-to

An electrical supplier may have something in the anti-oxidant category. I understand, in any event, something is better than nothing.

I just use my air jack under the fill side of the trailer.

My favorite item for that is NO-OX-ID. I learned about it as a favorite of antenna maintenance crews. I also use it in the Packard connectors.

The thermostat itself is an easy job. Not too hard to access. The real PITA is re-filling with the horizontal radiator cap. There are some really nice plastic funnel kits on E-Pay and Amazon that connect to the filler neck and make for much reduced swearing.

Ps #192 It's a 1968 issue. There is a good online copy here. https://digital.library.vcu.edu/digital/collection/psm/id/8275/rec/11