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It affects engines with wet liners. Meaning the liner is in contact with the coolant. Most modern diesel engines in trucks and such are built this way. It reduces the weight of the block by leaving a whole lot of metal out of the casting. It also makes it a bit easier to cure cylinder issues...

Carbide tipped hole cutters are available these days. Sizes starting at 5/8" Next best thing to annular cutters in mag drill without having to buy a mag drill. Best to buy some extra pilot bits. Personally, I don't buy anything other than cobalt alloy for regular drill bits...

For anyone looking for an alternative, theses magnetic reed switch senders from the marine/industrial world are perfect. https://rochestergauges.com/product/9800-marine/ I use one in my Deuce and one for a remote gauge on my diesel tank.

From the other end of I88, welcome aboard!!!

We used water/methanol injection on our Mack pulling truck. It made it possible to drive the truck to fairgrounds without burning pistons or turbos. It dropped the EGT a good 200 degrees which we desperately needed.

With a lot of older vehicles of many types, they fall into the category of "If there's no oil under it, there's no oil in it." As rusty said, if it's not leaking out in buckets, it will be fine.

7/8 - 18 could/should be the spark plug thread in old SAE dimensions. That thread is also used in oil drain plugs.

PTFE braided stainless is cheap enough these days. It should outlast the generator and/or the owner.

I haven't seen colored versions of these in LED. I used the white ones in this post. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?152783-MEP-802A-803A-gauge-lighting&p=2124420&viewfull=1#post2124420

These are the US common 240-33 ohm senders. Nothing exotic and easily obtained.

I use filter pliers mostly.

Wire #15 brings power to the switch. It gets it from wire #10 which brings up all the cab power. #10 is probably good because you had power at the start switch. Start with wire #15, pin F on the 3 way. Typically deteriorated connectors and or wires. 50+ years tends to take its toll.

I have not had any issues either. Clean connections and good clean grounds are always the best path to happiness.

The H4's work perfectly well for me. The price of the LED's is too much for not enough gain over the H4. The price difference buys a lot of H4 bulbs. Just running the H4's is like upgrading from kerosene lamps.

Eriks or TNJ Murray. TNJ Murray has them in stock.

A lot of things manufactured in the 99-07 time frame suffer from the capacitor plague. Some background: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

Welcome from the Southern Tier!!!

The principal application is Toyota. Look up a 2004 Toyota Tacoma any engine RWD or 4WD without the TRD package. They are the rear shocks. Rock auto has many choices under $20.

The first big upgrade for a deuce should be spin on oil filter adapters. That way you can use filters with the anti drain-back valve. They are available from several members here. I use westfolk's setup. And yes, there are gaskets for those grooves. There's a forum sticky with the deuce...

They are the US common 240-33 ohm variety.