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I used a large split bearing puller behind the wheel and a 3 jaw puller on that. They were the available items in my shop.

Or the lifter sticking in the bore. At some point the valve is/was nearly fully open when it shouldn't have been. The valves and lifters should all move easily. I would also check the valve stem for straightness. It should also be nice, shiny, and clean.

Yes. 24v to one terminal of the horn. The horn button/steering column connects to the other horn terminal.

The steering column and the horn button are used to provide a path to ground. The 24V feed should go to one side of the horn. The line from the column and button goes to the other terminal on the horn. Sounds like you connected the column to 24v. That would be just a dead short when you push...

The breakers are 15amp. A 10 or 15 amp fuse should be fine.

The part number is M13512/1-1. I usually order electrical parts from Saturn Surplus or Erik's.

It would be a fire hazard to not have circuit protection. You don't have to use a breaker but an in-line fuse would be really good idea. Fuse should be as close to the source as possible. The fuse's purpose is to protect the wire in case of a short.

The left one is the horn breaker. The right one is the heater breaker.

The horn power is fed from a circuit breaker on the firewall, upper driver's side. There will be one or two breakers if you have a heater installed or not. Those connections tend to be fried from age. Also, the breaker could be bad. On my deuce, I had to replace the breaker and run a new...

Welcome from the Southern Tier of NY. I have an M36A2 which is the long bed version.

https://www.propanecarbs.com/wisconsin.html

I go with a method known in these parts as "carburettor soup". Find an old pot big enough to hold it covered in water, add about 1/2 cup of baking soda, and boil it for 10-20 minutes. It'll clear out the goo. The goo tends to be slightly acidic and the baking soda breaks the bonds holding...

Around my area the electricians call it "trailer wire" the industry calls it Mobile Home Feeder Wire (MHF). It's aluminum service entrance cable with 4 conductors of 2-2-4-6. Generally its going to be the most economical.

Welcome from Vestal!!!

5 AN hard tube nuts are available. 5 AN male to 6 AN male adapters are also available. You could use a short section of hard tubing and a 5-6 adapter. Both Earl's Performance and Aeroquip have these parts.

It's a MIL-DTL-5015 style. 3106F, 10SL-3, female plug, cable mount from the looks of it. I usually order MIL connectors from Mouser. This one should work. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Harwin/C90-3106F10SL-3S?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvlJ9A%2fxQPjy3Jax4W9ovi2gGclAGor9Fc%3d

PM Sent

I just made the same change. A huge amount of light. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

The left side is -8 (1/2") hose and the right side is 3/4-18 inverted flare.

Fitting Along the lines of what Rusty was talking about, 3/4-18 inverted flare to PTFE hose: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm1139/overview/ And the corresponding hose: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fcc0820/overview/