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You can use a M151 ignition switch with some pigtails. Don’t forget about the M37’s propensities to vapor lock when hot.

Suggest you “hot waire” the ign switch leads together to eliminate that possibility

Time to run some numbers. Even when you can find usable, not rusted, not bent, not lug hole wallered out wheels, you will still have to blast them and pay shipping which these days is horrendous. Kaiserwillys has DOT approved new production wheels for 200 shipped. Ouch I know ….

You will see some soot normally. A carb flood is very distinctive, will be running fine then acts like you pull the choke. Did you do the fuel delivery check into a bucket yet? Needs to have full flow for a least a half a gallon.

Yes you can. MIL did on the M880 Dodge trucks. The switch has a self resetting circuit breaker inside that I believe is rated at around 20 amps.

Looks like someone has put a lot of effort into it already. I”d be losing the 6.00s, mutt wheels and roll bar right off. Good luck!

Update: I did acquire the unit last week. Its a bit weathered so I disassembled it for paint. Today a goodie box arrived from Eastern with all the parts to bring her back to life. Eastern was able to acquire the inventory from Saturn Surplus, who was the go-to supplier for these generator...

Nice! I suspect it does not have a pto or 3 point attachment since it’s the industrial model?

Cool tractor! Lots of pics on the net. Corps would have used them for pulling rollers or sweepers. Ordnance would use for pulling wagons around depots. Hope you restore it!

When it’s sputtering are you getting black smoke? Maybe this is the carburetor flooding. Hard to detect this since you can’t see down the throat of the Holley.

No way you are licked. This 302 has to be one of the simplest engines to work on, the only thing going against you is that everything is 74 years old. Back to the basics, fuel and spark.

Suggest you remove the fuel line at the carb and route into a bucket, power on the ignition and see if you have continuous flow for a few mins.

Now you have a fuel delivery problem. Carb is emptying out when heavy fueling is required.

Recheck your points gap. I think you messed up setting them. Suggest you connect a voltmeter to the 24 volt feed to the ignitor. Put the meter where you can see the display. Go for a ride and determine if the stalling coincides with voltage loss to the ignitor. I suspect your wiring is ancient.

Are you working with Supplement 7. Do either of the PCS solenoid wires show continuity with ground. Is there ATF in the Deutch connector. The usual suspects.

Nope. 6.5 block same cooling setup as a 350 Chevy.

Eastern Surplus just got in a supply of GEP 6.5s, sounds like you need one. Yours is blowed up.

You drove it 30 miles without any coolant?

This is kinda confusing, the IP can really only go in one way, the goof on this install is to drop a screw down into the guts.

Were you able to rotate the IP shaft prior to installation?