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I am not sure I would condemn it based on that small black spot, if it is bad it should measure as a dead short . MOVs are protection devices that are insignificant in the operation of a device, to say you can cut it out and it should not affect the operation only that circuit will not have any...

By the way, Welcome to the SS forums! I do not believe you should have 5V at the TPS when off, it looks like you have a defective TCM. It seems you have done a thorough job of troubleshooting the issue. All HMMWV TCMs are basically interchangeable only the shift points are a little different...

You need to check 290C/291C (connected to trans relay) to make sure the trans relay is releasing when run switch is off.

There is a seal kit, I would have to see if I have the number, it is a "universal" kit that has a couple different size seals. You will need a seal lip tool like pictured and do not follow the youtube videos where they just cram the thing together and hope for the best as you will likely ruin...

If you have the 400A alt. you need to carefully check the wiring harness passing behind and below the alt, they are very bad about shorting out because it was never intended to pass around such a large alternator.

Welcome to the SS forums! How did I miss this? anyhow as 155MM said use the supplement, the first thing to do is try and get the codes, it is real simple...

Boy, one of those dealers really lays it on thick? I am really cautious about anyone that puts that much fluff on their sales (trying to be as diplomatic as I can)

The rods are very hard and brittle, they do not bend they break, and yes the pump can break it.

If you do not make sure the rod is up in the block it will break.

How many of the 6 pickup loops on that top did you use? I have the same top and it looks like just the 4 outer ones would be enough, if that is what you used did the top flex much?

You need to measure it and see if it is the 12V tap or the 24V side and how much drain there is before you can start to troubleshoot it

That smoke is coming out of the exhaust ports in the heads, They are a left over from the gasser engines to pre-heat the intake manifold. So much can go wrong by running an engine with the intake off I would never attempt it.

The loose wire should be 2A, dig all the silicone out (carefully) and look for the stud. It MIGHT be possible that an alt. for a different application did not come with the AC tap but that is just a guess, should run and gen without it.

I think Sparo2 might be on to something, maybe the last guy stuck two o rings on it because the hose end was defective.

UPDATE turned out to be a defective Chicom fuse panel, the input bus bar was making int. connection to the unswitched power control lead fuse clip (AGU fuses) o_O It holds 4 AGU fuses, powering the lights, transfer case, transmission and engine (ECM) I just moved over and doubled up with the...

What I did was give the DuraVee a ride of shame home today :( After 23K of relatively trouble free terrorizing S TX it came down to this. It started 3 days ago when a couple time it took a little longer than usual for her to fire off, that happened twice in the estimated 10 times it was started...

In any case if the start wire is hot all the time you likely toasted the starter/solenoid. Back in the day the wire that was only hot when the starter was engaged to was to by-pass the ign resistor on gasser motors to give a hotter spark while cranking, I have no idea what it would do on a diesel...

I keep meaning to look and see if there is a reason they did not include the ability to "jam" the pump rod like the SB and BB chevys.

Do you have good power to the rest of the truck, head lights etc?