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Unfortunately you may have damaged the pump by not having it aligned correctly, hopefully not.

You will have a love/hate relationship with that spare, I like having a spare but I hate dealing with it every time I want to get into the tailgate which so far is MUCH more often than I need a spare :oops:

The brake light and turn signal power goes through the light switch and the turn signal switch so I would start there.

Normally we can buy parts on the civy market much cheaper than what the gov. pays. But check out what they pay for a mil spec 10K RF half shaft!

Here is the 200A trouble shooting guide

EDIT, what I meant to say is the cold start feature only effects engines with emissions controls, they retarded the timing on emission controlled vehicles to the point they have trouble starting when cold.

When the solenoid is active it causes the timing to advance, all this has nothing to do with the check valve in the fitting and only effects emmisions, Stanadyne IPs before emission controls did not have the cold advance feature and none of the off road (tractor) IPs have this feature. But if...

The cold advance solenoid does not "open" the return check valve.

You still have not said if you have confirmed the fuel return LINE is not plugged. For some reason I cannot see the vid.

You should be able to connect the fuel pressure gauge to the water drain line and open the valve.

I would work with it quite a bit more before removing the IP, if it runs at any time correctly then at most you have something "sticking" Question at any time did you have a very filthy fuel filter? If so there is a screen in the fuel input fitting to the IP that could be plugged, it has...

That does not sound like a typical IP issue, more like a plugged return or fuel starvation.(although I am not always right!) Did you pop the fuel cap off to see if it had built a vacuum?

I use the Stanadyne (lubricity) stuff on the Detroit, I figure they know what the IP they build needs and it's cheaper. On the Dmax I use Lucas BTW if the plungers were damaged from lack of lubricity adding lube would at best be a temp. fix. The best way to judge what condition the plungers are...

I saw that also, looked like a legit FAV from what I could see

It could be a plugged return, this will starve the engine for fuel, pull the return check valve (fitting in top of the IP) and make sure none of that plastic got jammed in there.

What about the cold advance solenoid?

Can you remove the injectors?

Just doing some "semi annual" maint. before heading down to S. Padre Island for some spring break fun. I went ahead and tossed a tire mount on the DuraVee, not having even bead locks in those Petlas tires means even a "simple" flat can cause allot of trouble. I usually just toss the spare in the...

The EUC times usually gets faster the more times you buy also.

You need to troubleshoot the problem, the first question I would ask is if the heater motor is working? The heater gets its power from the same relay that excites the alternator. In any case you also need to check and make sure you have 24V going to the IGN terminal on the regulator. It does...