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Hey gang, I've gone dark here a bit lately with a few other projects getting priority, but thanks to @Lostchain, I recently took a run at troubleshooting the CTIS issue I had in the fall. For those late to the party, I documented it here...

Water will back up in the filler neck when full, or push out the air vent. I don't have an overflow built in. The three other rv's I've had have all been that way.

Sorry Chucky, missed your post... Those are the water fill and the air vent ports. I need to create the channel for the plumbing to access it, but that's where it will enter the tank. I think I will also have a pressurized service connection somewhere as well.

They already published the video from yesterday's tank pick up:

You are correct. There are no clearance issues. I don't have any specific pics but the short story is the subframe rail and the base rail of the habitat gave me ~12" of height to play with, and the floor deck gives me another 3" as well. I think the bottom of the structure is slightly below...

A few pics of the tank in position: And one of (unfortunately) what it looks like after it's in position: Plumbing to start soon!

Kevin also just sent me the video they made while building the tank:

I've been off the radar for a few weeks for a couple of reasons- work, travel, waiting on parts... Today, I picked up one of the parts- my water tank. It is a work of art!! Custom made to perfectly fit the cavity between the frame rails and get me max capacity out of the available space. I...

If you're 6' with 75-76" true interior height, you'll be fine! Just be sure you account for all your floor components' thicknesses and ceiling insulation, roof structure thickness, etc... I only have 2-3" clearance with shoes on once all that is rolled up, but it's definitely sufficient.

I'd have to check the math but I am 6' 3" and have plenty of headroom with a 3.5" thick ceiling. I am out of town for a while but can check upon return.

Yep, found the image on the forum here. I forget the username but it is the one you're all referring to having the airdrop mishap. I just googled for LMTV war pig and it came up.

I am not an expert but that is my belief as well. When I was looking for images, that was what I googled (LMTV war pig).

And you can make them a convertable too!!!

A good time was had by all: @Lostchain , @GeneralDisorder , ckouba, and @Ellis6 made a run to a very crowded Kaizer In-N-Out, but we managed to find a photogenic spot for some glamor shots. Excellent to meet some of the similarly afflicted in the neighborhood.

A bit south of town, in Canby, a small handful of us are getting together for a lunch rally. If anyone is interested in connecting, drop a line here. We'll be starting near the Canby Fred Meyers if you can make it. We won't be actually going there though, just nearby, so connect here for the...

Yep, that's where I got mine. It's at what I'd call a neutral extension "at rest" and is the 4.5" to 10" version. Thanks! I think it depends where you anchor your subframe. Mine is pinned right behind the cab to minimize displacement between the cab and habitat. I assume that's a...

Momentum gained - side hatch installed: Passthrough accordion gasket installed: Took it around the block yesterday and it's fairly stable. The most deflection seems to be from the cab air ride with the box remaining pretty stable on the chassis (or at least appearing to be). Next...

After a few weeks of dry weather, we finally got a good dousing. I left the truck outside and happily, it remained dry inside. Yay! I have worked through a number of other little things in the interim and now have the side cargo hatch set up (opening cut in the siding, door skinned and...

Same experience here. As long as you choose a fluid which conforms to their spec, you should be good. The fluid I used was certified to their TES 349 spec.

No affiliation: https://www.driveshafts.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQiApL2QBhC8ARIsAGMm-KEOdHxTmYI4IYBBIVNP7JdF4e58cRsf5PWydLzWtL734xugiFmX2GYaAnU9EALw_wcB Driveline Service of Portland