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I'm not actually intending to change between them, just want to get it topped back up. I don't know volume-wise how much is out. Took it around the block after doing some work and had loosened a line to the cooler. Noticed a wet driveline upon pulling back in the driveway, so I tightened it...

Problem 1: My trans needs some fluid added. Problem 2: When I check the dipstick, it looks like it's ATF and not motor oil. I obviously don't want to add the wrong one. Actual question to the group: Is there an easy and definitive way to determine what's in the unit? Truth be told, I haven't...

I will be using 1.5" OD tube for the lower front stuff (windshield protection, light mounts, etc) and 2" square for the rack above the roof, I think it's .120" wall. I have no aspirations of using the turret hole and I do intend to incorporate some sort of fairing to the end result. I also...

Many months in the making, Elvis has left the building.... As promised, still a bit of paneling to close out the rear, need to get the springs installed for the subframe (just bolted together in the pics), need to cut the window/roof hatch apertures and install them, need to complete all...

TOUCHDOWN!!!! Ran out of time to actually bolt/spring it in place, but it is down on the chassis and actually lined up with the mount plates. There is still a bit of work to do- it's technically still on the jacks/jackstands, as well to finish the paneling, but it feels pretty sweet to get...

The last panels were put in yesterday, and the spring perches have started to go back on the subframe. Progress is being made!

Another good day here- got the trans cooler mounts out, cleaned off, painted, and reinstalled with the cooler, plus wired in the fans, all after a day's work and without getting rained on ('cause the chassis is out in the open with the camper occupying the carport). That's two days in a row...

Thanks guys. No need for the pep talk now though... As you can see, I am in the midst of massive visible progress. I was a little frustrated earlier but that frustration is long gone. Prepping it for blast and paint was mind-numbing. I worked for 3-4 weeks with no significant visible...

And walls and a floor: I need to do a few things to the chassis but it's about time to reunite the two of them. The panels in the lower tankage area will be fit up after it's back on the chassis and the remaining panels will be fit up after the interior is mostly built out.

I'll bite: how the heck did you get that done? I found the access to the back side is..... problematic.

I used the 1083 doublers as the base for my subframe. I am phone-based access only through next week but there are some pics in my build thread as B-dog mentioned.

I have a roof!!!

Oh, I know about 3M... I have a boat and am familiar with their 4000 and 5200 line of adhesives. They are the mother of all adhesives. I've had to remove a component which was 5200'd to some fiberglass and ended up pulling off gelcoat from the glass, not the adhesive from the...

Got one you'd recommend? A quick search or two gets me to some 3M products: Urethane windshield adhesive - https://www.amazon.com/3M-08693-Urethane-Windshield-Cartridge/dp/B000RW1XCK A faster curing version of above - https://www.amazon.com/3M-08690-Glass-Urethane-Cartridge/dp/B0038D8OSG Any...

That is excellent to hear. I researched it, but good to hear positive feedback using the product in the same situation. Ply is internal to the skin. I've been leaning toward the spray foam for the reasons you allude to, as well as the mechanical stiffness due to the bonded nature of the...

For better or worse, Liquid Nails Fuze It. Seemed to rate well on the internet and a few of the videos I watched (independent ones). I did screw it to the metal as well, so it's not just adhesive holding it together. I did a trial of it with the ACP and it held well enough that I trust it for...

No pics but some progress. Big morning: the roof plywood is on the truck and screwed/bonded to the structure. I have committed to the alu composite panel and have a stash of them at home. If all goes well, the pieces for the roof will be on the roof in the morning. Still getting over the $...

2000 M1088A1

I believe the rotating beacon switch on the dash sends power via a sheathed 2 wire cable to a cannon plug, not the single wire connectors in your pic. It is the line which goes to the center of the rear cab wall. I'm not at home right now, so the sheath may just be a tape wrap but can check...

FYI - Thanks for the help, got the truck home today with the unplugged CTIS. Will take a look at the manual conversion set up before diving through the troubleshooting process.