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Went to open my door and heard a bunch of metal parts drop and my door handle didn't work.
Opened it up, and found the spring on the latching mechanism decided it didn't want to live anymore.
Ordered a new latch. Installed it... and handle wouldn't go back in.
Pulled it back out... checked...
While it may not be an issue for others (or the OP), for security reasons, I want something that can be retracted/stowed from inside.
With my M934 I wrapped a loop of paracord around the top step, and once I was in, was able to lift it up and bring it inside.
I'm more concerned about 2 legged...
Accordion stairs, as some call them.
I'm just gonna go ghetto and weld up a hinge on a heavy duty aluminum staircase. It'll fold up/down when not in use. Tempted on whether or not I make it spring loaded so it only stays down when there's weight on it... :D
Also, ABS light was still on.
Apparently, it just needed to be driven.
I moved it about 200ft..Turned it off.
Went to move it about 20 mins later, and power switch on and *clicclicclick...clacclacclack*......... *click*..... ABS light off... :cool:
I'm guessing you're supposed to go into...
I would caution against any overhang, personally.
Overhangs greatly impact turning ability and can negatively impact departure angles.
I did all the maths for the 939 series in its different flavors (923, 931, and 934), and not in one case did the extra length offset the negatives involved (in...
So, the programming sheet doesn't seem to work.... but here it is.
I might have to suck it up and email HALDEX.
EDIT: Site seems to be shrinking my images to make them unreadable.
2 full size versions below.
The thing about 24V is it's half amperage compared to 12V. So a 70A 24V alternator is akin to a 140A 12V alternator. Watts are watts.
With these trucks, the only real electronic draw is your lights, ABS, and the fuel shutoff solenoid (and the starter).
The solenoid can be bypassed, so these...
Side note: DON'T use 'CLEAR CC' - only 'CLEAR CA'... Apparently 'CLEAR CC' clears the calibration.... and you have to reprogram it. Luckily, mine came with a programming table sheet. I'll have to take a pic of that and upload it.
I can post the manual if you want?
Also, probably best money I spent in terms of troubleshooting. I know smaller agencies have a 'cut the wires, so the lights don't flash' way of removing equipment from emergency vehicles, and this was a former FD truck, so I suspected it was a cut wire. Well...
Gotta say some of the best money spent so far... re: ABS reader.
Pointed me right to the drivers side rear wheel.. I decided to trace wiring before I messed with the ECU/controller... and .... well...
Knowing how small agencies are when it comes to decommissioning emergency vehicles...
That's a damn good question.
When I bought mine back in January or so, they were all over Amazon. Now it's like they don't exist... and searching isn't working, since 1/2" is a standard drive profile, everything I'm finding is for that, and not the actual square bit.
Brand new in box. Came with full manual and install guide/kit. Still had that offgassing fresh plastic smell.
:D
Ebay.
Guy had it listed for ~200 and I offered 180.
Not cheap, but if I took it to a cummins dealer or anyone who might have one, I'd be looking at 2x that in fuel and hourly costs.