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So today I found that my lift pump is leaking fuel out of the priming pump. I'm looking to replace it and I'm a little confused on the part #s. Erik's sells P/N 3917999 and shows a picture that doesn't quite match up to my pump. The site says it replaces P/N 4988749 which, when looked up on...

Isn't it better to charge the batteries individually than together over the slave plug?

I'm up north. Don't be one of those southerners. :-P

Thanks to this thread I now know 5 of my xzl tires were made in 2011 and 1 in 2008.

From the pictures, it looks like the ones in Utah are still on HAFB, so maybe that's not changing.

Well, they're routing more traffic onto our street than we'd like and a new subdivision is going in just south of us with almost 50 homes and only 1 entrance/exit to the division.That entrance is right on our street. That'll be a LOT of traffic.

I'm loving living in cache... But we're already thinking about moving a little farther out from the city.

In the TM section is the P2P program. It's an interactive map of the air and electrical systems.

I own a M923A2. My first big truck. Every now and then I have turning issues: too sharp, farking Prius in the way, etc., but otherwise it's not that hard to drive. The biggest difference between the deuce and the M939 series is the height. You're sitting 6 feet up in the M939 with 1400R20 tires...

I hope I'm not hijacking, but I have a similar issue. With my m923a2, when I push the washer fluid button, instead of the lid blowing off, it some spray out the jets, but mostly, the resivior bottle whale blows fluid out the vent hose. Does this mean the jets are partially blocked?

The mesh filter is on the inlet side of the actuator body. What I'm referring to is the 90 degree elbow that screws into the outlet. It looked like a 1/8" brass wire was stuffed in there filling the whole thing. I'm going to take it apart again tomorrow for a better cleaning and I'll take a picture.

For those that have taken apart their actuator, does the 90* outlet elbow have what looks like wire stuffed into it, or should it be completely open like the inlet elbow?

Well, that's good. I just drop some psi when I press the brake, then when I release, it vents out the stack. no continuous loss.

What do you mean by "dump all air"? Does that mean if I hold the brakes, air will continually vent into the stack? Should not some air vent into the stack when you hit the brakes?

1st step would be to jack up the front end and check the axle lock function. Air up the truck, jack up 1 side of the front and see if the wheel spins with the axle lock off. Then set the lock and see if the wheel stops. If that functions correctly then move on to diagnosing the transfer case.

Well, I ended up bending the bows to something that seemed reasonable. Works well. I also riveted the soft top back to the plastic. I used a heavy duty 3M double sided tape to seal the fabric to the plastic, then drilled, and pop riveted.

45 years ago a bunker buster was your bunker buddy's bad gas. :-/

To reattach the plastic to the canvas I'm using 2 things. First I'm using heavy duty 3m double sided tape to stick the plastic on to the canvas. Then I'm drilling 1/8" holes and using pop rivets. Hopefully it will hold up. And gorilla tape is great... Until it melts and leaves all that sticky...

Can someone post a picture of the profile of the soft top cab bows? I'm cleaning my soft top and repairing the j channel and while I have it off I want to try and bend the bows back to the original shape.

I plan on getting a battery box from a m915/m916/m920 and replacing the large storage box on the passenger side. I'll probably add a check valve drain and some kind of raised vent.